Insulating the facade with penoplex: installation technology. Insulation of walls from the outside with penoplex: technology Insulation of walls with penoplex technology from the outside

The procedure for exterior finishing of walls of a private house with insulation has de facto become a kind of standard in the arrangement of facades. Today, many different mineral and polymer materials are offered for thermal insulation of walls, but for a private house, facade insulation with penoplex proved to be more effective, even though the cost of finishing could be higher than when using conventional polystyrene foam blocks, mineral or basalt wool.

What is penoplex

In fact, this is the name of a trading and manufacturing enterprise that produces thermal insulation materials based on polystyrene foam. Today penoplex has become a household name, like aspirin or asphalt. Penoplex is understood as extruded slab polystyrene foam, manufactured using gas-free technology:

• Raw materials in the form of a mixture of primary polystyrene and gas-forming solid filler are forced through filters under high pressure and temperature to obtain a special porous structure;
• The extruded mass is crushed on roller rollers into strips of the desired thickness;
• The frozen mass of penoplex is cut into slabs of the required size.

Why is it so important to know and understand the structure of penoplex. Insulation of facades with Penoplex is often subject to all sorts of criticism, often simply groundless and far-fetched. Therefore, when choosing a material, you need to know its features and characteristics.

For your information! Thanks to the use of extrusion technology, penoplex gains increased strength against contact pressure and tensile strength of the slab, and the use of freon-free gasification makes it possible to obtain closed pores of the required size and configuration.

The main characteristics of penoplex are shown in the table.

Penoplex is a universal, chemically resistant and at the same time high-strength heat insulator. Penoplex is used to insulate foundations, basement floors and even road surfaces. Often, many experts consider penoplex too flammable for cladding facades above the first floor. But this limitation applies specifically to ordinary brands of extruded polystyrene foam, laid in the ground or under a layer of concrete screed.

For cladding and insulation of facade walls, the manufacturing company recommends using a specially modified version of EPS, known under the trade name “Penoplex Facade”. The production technology makes it possible, through special fire-retardant fillers, to obtain practically non-flammable expanded polystyrene foam with unchanged parameters of thermal conductivity, strength and water absorption.

Negative aspects of facade insulation technology with penoplex

Like any construction or finishing technology, the method of using foam sheets to insulate the facade of a building has its hidden disadvantages:

1. Firstly, like all polymers, extruded polystyrene foam is very sensitive to the effects of solar ultraviolet radiation. Penoplex laid on the walls of the facade, without external cladding with siding or cement-sand plaster, can turn into a crumbling mass in just a year;
2. Secondly, penoplex, like polystyrene foam, when heated strongly, releases a large amount of toxic gases, therefore, for any form of cladding of facades or interior spaces, it is necessary to use only special grades of insulation;
3. Thirdly, the synthesis of polystyrene is carried out using styrene or ethylbenzene. In the production of branded materials, highly purified raw materials from primary polymer are used. Cheap brands of expanded polystyrene foam made from recycled materials can reach the maximum permissible concentration for ethylbenzene, tens of times higher than the safe standard.

Advice! Use penoplex only for external cladding of plinths and facades of buildings; in this matter, EPPS has no equal.

To reduce heat loss through brick walls for central Russia, it is enough to use foam boards up to 50 mm thick. For concrete or frame-panel facades using insulation technology, slabs with a thickness of 60-70 mm will be required.

If the insulation technology is followed, the durability of the foam-based thermal insulation layer, according to the manufacturer, reaches 50 years. Such a high service life of the insulation can only be achieved if the heat-insulating coating is protected from external factors in the form of moisture, heat, ultraviolet radiation and air oxygen using a cement-sand screed. In all other cases, the service life of extruded polystyrene foam insulation is reduced to 30-35 years.

Technology for laying insulation on facade walls

To insulate walls, a combined technology of attaching foam sheets to the building facade is used:

While the glue has not hardened, each row of penoplex is leveled horizontally to reduce gaps at the joints. At the final stage, no earlier than 72 hours after gluing, the insulation sheets are additionally attached to the walls using mushroom-shaped dowel plugs. After the adhesive base has set, the cracks and joints between the foam insulation boards are blown with mounting foam or a special Fastfix aerosol composition.

Features of laying foam sheets on the facade of a building

The practical application of installation technology does not present any particular difficulties, but to obtain maximum strength and durability of the insulation layer, several features will need to be taken into account.

The starting strip is attached to the lower edge of the wall, with a distance of 4-5 cm from the ground or blind area. The profile is sewn to the facade using dowels, the technology-recommended distance between the fastening points is 500-600 mm, for heavy sheets, 80-100 mm thick, the pitch can be reduced to 300 mm. The common starting strip is assembled from single sections 2-3 m long. A gap of 2-3 mm is left at the joints of the profiles to compensate for thermal expansion.

For your information! The strength and durability of the installed facade insulation largely depends on the correct assembly of the starting strip.

The second factor influencing the quality of facade insulation is the correct bandaging of rows of penoplex. According to technology, the minimum width of the corner sheet of material must be at least 200 mm. For edging windows or entrance doors located on the facade of a building, a universal rule applies - the horizontal and vertical lines of the window-door contour should not coincide with the joints between the slabs.

Each insulation board is additionally fixed with five “fungi”. One element presses the sheet in the center and four at the edges. In places where insulation sheets join, one fungus can be used to fix the penoplex for several slabs. The technology for attaching the “fungus” to the facade is extremely simple. Initially, a hole is drilled to a mounting depth of plus 20 mm, after which the plastic part of the fastener is installed and the rod or nail is driven in. Before fixing, you need to drown the fungus as much as possible into the foam sheet, without allowing the surface to rupture.

Finishing stages of insulation technology

Layed foam sheets must be protected from exposure to sunlight, moisture and low temperatures. Most often, plastering, clapboard or siding are used.

Plaster can be used if the foam insulation surface can be laid out in a relatively regular plane. The thickness of the plaster layer on an insulated facade, even when using reinforcing fiberglass mesh, rarely exceeds 8 mm, so flaws and unevenness in the masonry after plastering will be in full view.

According to the technology, before plastering the facade, corner elements with mesh are initially installed, then vertical mesh sheets are laid overlapping on the insulation layer. The installed corners are rubbed with plaster mixture so that the mesh is completely immersed in the plaster. After 3-4 hours, the applied layer can be leveled with a grater.

If you plan to cover the facade with plastic siding panels, then it is best to purchase special penoplex for the siding. As a rule, manufacturers of materials for insulation and siding sell curtain facade kits, which include foam sheets, a steel profile for sheathing and, in fact, the siding panels themselves. This penoplex has a special knurled surface that ensures normal ventilation of the air gap between the siding and the insulation. Thus, condensation formed in the autumn-spring period will be removed without the risk of flowing into the seams and joints between the sheets.

Fastening siding to the surface of insulated facade walls is no different from cladding brick or concrete walls. The only thing is that instead of standard dowels, standard fasteners are used, extended by the thickness of the insulation sheet.

Conclusion

Insulation with extruded polystyrene foam, subject to installation technology, will be much more durable than the use of mineral felts and fibers. The main reason why EPS is used for building cladding is its strength and tolerance to shrinkage and movement of building walls. In addition, penoplex retains its thermal insulation qualities even when 100% immersed in water, which is unacceptable for most fiber materials.

It is these qualities that make it possible to use this material as floor and wall cladding, as well as

The particular effectiveness of the finishing material lies in the correct installation of the structure, because if the penoplex is installed incorrectly, it can quite quickly lose its shape and its proper qualities.

Therefore, before installing the facade, it is necessary to study the technology of laying this insulating material so that the repair work goes quickly and without any problems.

Preparatory stage of installation

Like many repairs, preparing a room for installation of finishing material should begin with cleaning the wall covering from dirt, dust and remnants of the previous finish.

To insulate a house with penoplex, it is important that the wall surface is as smooth as possible. If the walls you are insulating have bumps or depressions, it is recommended to cover them with plaster or a layer of primer.

Materials and tools

• dowels;
• plaster;
• fastening nails;
• primer;
• thin cord (preferably nylon).

You will also need tools when finishing the wall covering:

• saw;
• level;
• screwdriver;
• putty knife.

Experts advise: Prepare all materials and tools in advance so that during the installation of the facade you have everything at hand.

Penoplex installation

The installation of this finishing material is carried out in several stages, each of which plays an important role in all repair work:

1. 1. Treatment of the facade wall of the house. Before you need to prepare the wall. That is, you need to clean it from dirt, protruding reinforcement, nails, and so on. The surface of the facade wall, if necessary, can be sanded. After this, we dilute the putty solution and cover small cracks, holes and other damage to the wall with it. Then, using a nylon cord, we check the evenness of the wall - it is important to pay close attention to this stage, since an uneven wall covering can ruin the penoplex.

1. 1. Glue preparation. How to properly dilute the glue is written on the packaging. It is important that it does not turn out liquid - in this case, the panels will not stick to the wall, and the quality of the penoplex will deteriorate significantly.

1. 1. Applying glue to the material. Applying glue to penoplex should be done with a notched trowel. At the same time, be sure to ensure that the adhesive base is evenly spread over the entire sheet. Also pay special attention to the corners.

1. Installation of insulation in two layers. The most effective insulation will be achieved if the foam is installed in two layers. If you want to make a two-layer installation of this insulation, the first layer should not be glued, but simply nailed to the wall.

That's all - the installation of penoplex on the facade is completed. All you have to do is finish the facade, and you will be able to evaluate the quality of your work.

Facade finishing

After laying the slabs, they must be protected from precipitation. To do this, it is necessary to carry out finishing work using any decorative materials. These include:

• profiled metal;
• ceramic tiles;
• lining;
• paint;
• plastic profiles.

You need to finish the façade depending on the decorative material you choose. For example, a plastic profile is attached to the walls using self-tapping screws or dowels; the paint is applied directly to the insulation. In any case, you must first select the material and only then finish the walls.

See overview video about façade insulation with penoplex:

When the approach of cold winter is already felt in the air, we can’t help thinking about how to better insulate our home. Penoplex is a very popular option, optimal in price and quality. In use, the material will not take much effort and time from the builder, but it will definitely be necessary to protect the insulation from mechanical and weather influences. How to do this will be discussed in this article.

Penoplex is often used as insulation of buildings from the outside or inside. Working with it is made easier by the consistent physical characteristics and dimensions of the slabs. The strength of penoplex is not enough to prevent the slabs from collapsing from pinpoint impacts and other physical impacts (dents cannot be avoided in any case). Therefore, it is necessary to protect the material from the adverse effects of ultraviolet radiation, humidity, etc. And visually, a wall insulated with slabs still seems unfinished and requires additional finishing. The use of penoplex implies, in addition to insulation, also additional finishing.

A simple and inexpensive method of finishing surfaces after insulation is plaster. This type of construction work is appropriate when the slabs are attached to the surface by gluing. Penoplex can be installed in another way: in a supporting frame, in the cells of the sheathing. With this option, the facing of the plane will be done either with panels, or clapboard, or something else.

We check if there are any gaps between the plates. Almost no one succeeds in laying insulation perfectly the first time. We seal the joints if this point was missed during installation. Pay attention to the curvature of the entire plane, because the adhesive solution is then applied in a thin layer. It will not be possible to level out unevenness due to the specific composition. To close the gaps between the foam boards, you can foam the gaps with foam for insulation systems (or usually mounting foam), for example, Ceresit CT-84. For one can (850 ml) you will need to pay approximately 600 rubles.

Penoplex prices

Penoplex

Making a plaster solution

Do not use a standard cement-based mortar with sand, as it will not give a good quality plaster composition. The store is full of mixtures with a composition suitable for laying on penoplex.

Experienced finishers advise using:

• "Stolit"
• "Ceresit"
• "Ecomix".

When mixing, strictly follow the instructions left by the manufacturer on the packaging. Experienced craftsmen make a mixture that is similar in thickness to sour cream. To glue fiberglass mesh, the consistency of the mixture should be slightly thinner than required by the manufacturer. In the case of a leveling layer, the solution should be so liquid that it flows freely from the spatula. Hence the different consumption of the composition: gluing the mesh will require 4 kg per 1 sq. meter, for a leveling layer - 6 kg of mixture per square meter. meter.

The compositions of different manufacturers, despite being very similar, have different components. Therefore, it is better to use products from the same manufacturer at the same facility to avoid unnecessary problems.

Use formulations that are universal in application, and you won’t have to think about additional nuances associated with limitations in the scope of application.

Prices for popular types of plaster

Plaster

Primary layer sketch

Penoplex is prepared for plastering by laying the primary layer. For this purpose, alkali-resistant PVC mesh must be used. By using PVC, you will insure yourself against the aggressive influence of cement on the exposed mesh. Cement is known to react with many materials.

Cut strips the length of which should be slightly greater than the height of the wall. Please note that installation is done from top to bottom. Apply the strip to the fiberglass with one hand, and apply the solution to the mesh exclusively along the top edge with the other. Thus, the mesh is, as it were, “welded” to the penoplex. As a result, the primary layer should be up to 5 mm thick.

Penoplex insulation scheme: 1 - penoplex slabs, 2 - glue, 3 - dowels, 4 - reinforcing mesh, 5 - primer, 6 - plaster coating

When the top edge is fixed to the plane, apply the solution to the mesh so that it is evenly distributed across the entire width. Every movement comes from top to bottom. Be sure to leave a vertical “tape” clean of the plaster mixture on the right side, because each subsequent strip will overlap the edge of the previous one by almost 1 cm.

As a result, it turns out that the wall will be strip by strip covered over the entire surface with a mesh. Look at all the places on the wall where the geometry of the plane changes (door openings, slopes, window openings) - first of all, you need to start laying the mesh from them.

Prices for reinforcing mesh for foam plastic

Smoothing the first layer

This procedure must be performed so that the base under the second layer is smooth and monolithic. Moisten the trowel with water and level the entire surface, lightly pressing on the foam. We do not pay attention to the sections of the mesh that appear through the solution to the outside - this is normal. It happens that, after waiting for the solution to dry, experienced specialists prime the primary layer again.

Finishing mixture

The second layer is necessary to complete the alignment of the wall and hide all auxiliary elements, such as reinforcement. The third layer is possible if the quality of the second for some reason does not please the master. But this is only a “rough” finishing before the final stage - the final surface design. The last stage is usually performed using decorative plaster. If the surface was made uneven, then normal installation of the “decoration” is out of the question.

Table. Necessary tools and materials.

What needs to be provided

Before purchasing plastering materials, make a calculation of the quantity purchased. If work is carried out using the established technology, the mixture consumption will be within 4 kg/m2 when laying the initial layer. The second layer will require from 5.5 to 6.5 kg/m2.

This advice: take a spare mixture in case you suddenly need to make a third correction layer.

Step-by-step instructions for plastering penoplex

To plaster the foam yourself, you need to do a series of preparatory steps, one after the other in a strict order.

First step. Ensure good adhesion by treating the surface with a deeply penetrating primer “Betonkontakt” (from manufacturers such as VIOLUX, Ceresit, Feidal). Price 700-1000 rub. for 15 l. A large brush or paint roller is suitable for the job. Before application, you need to shake the composition and pour some part into a suitable plane. Dip the brush into the liquid and apply an even layer of primer to the surface. Liquid should not leak or accumulate in certain areas. The surface is treated with a primer one more time after the first layer has dried.

Second step. Attach the base profile to the wall. You will need a measuring tool (for example, a ruler or tape measure) to mark the points on the wall where you will make holes with a drill. It’s better to take a hammer drill for this - you’ll waste less time.

Third step. To glue foam boards to the wall, mix the adhesive solution. To simplify the process and reduce work time, select a container that fits the entire bag of mixture. It is most convenient to knead with an electric mixer with a collapsible attachment.

Fourth step. As soon as the prepared solution is on the facade, glue the foam boards to it. But it will be more convenient and economical to apply glue to one side of the slab, distributing it evenly along the entire perimeter. And in the middle it’s enough to throw a few “cakes”. Place the insulation against the wall carefully along the pre-set load-bearing supports. It is recommended to slam the stove several times. Use a spatula to remove excess solution.

Insulating the facade with 5 cm penoplex and framing the corners with 2 cm penoplex

Fifth step. Each penoplex plate must be rigidly fixed using a dowel umbrella. This operation is carried out using a drill. 4–6 holes are made throughout the entire area, into which dowel umbrellas are placed. Cover the dowel caps along with all the recesses in the penoplex.

Sixth step. A reinforcing layer is made from perforated corners and fiberglass mesh. Aluminum corners are glued to the outer corners. The same glue is used for the corners and mesh: either Ceresit ST 83, or KREISEL 210, or Glims KF. Price 350-600 rub. for 25 kg. It is necessary to cut the reinforced fiberglass mesh. It should be taken into account that the canvases should overlap each other no more than 10 cm when they are glued to the slabs. Also leave a distance of almost 10 cm for turning the corners. Apply the adhesive composition approximately 3 mm thick - it is more convenient to do this from top to bottom in small areas at a time. Its thickness should be slightly less than indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer. Compliance with these points ensures that the glue does not have time to set before the completion of the reinforcing layer. Then use a putty knife to glue the fiberglass to the wall.

Advice! If the fiberglass mesh does not have sufficient flexibility and the corners cannot be bent normally, apply liquid glue at the bends to make the fabric more elastic.

Seventh step. The adhesive solution is applied to the reinforcing layer. An ordinary spatula will help you apply a layer of glue evenly. In essence, it looks like rough plaster.

Eighth step. A finishing layer (or two) of primer is distributed over the thermal insulation cake. This is done using a wide brush.

Ninth step. Plastering and painting of the facade is carried out at the final stage of work using a plaster falcon and a paint roller. The primer must dry before doing this. After drying, the finishing is completed with decorative plaster. It is rubbed over after the applied layer begins to set. When the plaster dries, the surface is painted with special facade paint. For these purposes, water-dispersed compositions are used.

At the ninth step, work on insulating and protecting walls from freezing can be considered completed. When insulation is carried out inside a building, instead of plaster, putty is applied to the reinforced layer, followed by decorative finishing (wallpapering or painting). It should be noted that staining is not necessary in all cases. To the question of when to paint and when not to paint, you can find the answer on the packaging of the putty you are using.

Video - Do-it-yourself façade plastering using penoplex

Without external and/or internal insulation of the house, heating costs, repairs of damp walls, etc. increase. Timely (preferably at the beginning of building a house) insulation with penoplex will significantly increase the service life of the entire building, reduce energy costs, and make routine repairs less frequent.

Properties and features of penoplex

Thermal insulation material penoplex is slabs of extruded polystyrene foam. Extrusion is the pressing of molten polystyrene foam with additives through a special mold, resulting in a foamed mass that, after cooling, turns into a durable, elastic, heat-impervious material. Plates or sheets (panels) of EPS (extruded polystyrene foam) can be of any size, since after forming the sheet it is cut according to established patterns.

1. 1 – outer surface of the wall;
2. 2 – internal finishing layer on the walls;
3. 3 – glue on which the insulation of a brick or wooden wall of a house is attached;
4. 4 – finishing of penoplex of the required thickness;
5. 5 – outer layer of glue with reinforced fiberglass mesh;
6. 6 – layer of external decorative finishing.

Advantages of insulating the facade of a brick house - video:

Insulation materials

Before covering a house with extruded foam, prepare the following materials:

1. EPP sheets (plates), the number of which is calculated based on the total area of ​​the external walls. Be sure to make a reserve of 10% - for fighting, pruning and incorrect calculations;
2. Primer composition to cover the facade walls of the house with it before attaching the EPP. It is recommended to treat the surface of a wall made of brick, gas silicate, foam concrete, or a plastered surface with a deep penetration primer. Concrete walls are impregnated with Betonokontakt primer, with the addition of fine quartz sand;
3. A starting metal profile, which is necessary for the initial fastening of sheets, starting from the base of the house. The same profile sets the horizontal direction of insulation;
4. Special construction adhesive for fastening polystyrene foam.

Dry building mixture for fastening EPS

1. The Ceresit ST-85 mixture has an optimal composition for attaching penoplex from the outside. Substance consumption – ≤ 5 kg/m2. It can also be used to attach a reinforcing mesh (item No. 5 in the figure above). Ceresite is applied twice - before the mesh and on it, so that a plaster layer can be applied. The mixture consumption for these layers is 2-3 kg/m2 for each layer.
2. Plastic dowels with a wide head - “umbrellas”. You will need 5-6 of them per 1 m2 - this consumption will allow you to sheathe the walls more reliably;
3. Fiberglass mesh for reinforcing the plaster layer. It is most convenient to work with a mesh 1 meter wide. Approximate material consumption is 1.1 linear meters per 1 m2 of surface;
4. Primer composition “Ceresit” - from this line, the primer paints “Ceresit CT-15” and “Ceresit CT-16” are optimal, with the application of which the plaster will be reliably protected from moisture and mechanical damage. Soil consumption – about 300 g/m²;

Decorative plaster can be used in different ways, and this depends on the material of the walls of the house, on the fraction of the plaster composition itself, and even on weather conditions.

Calculation of the area of ​​internal or external insulation is sometimes necessary to clarify the consumption of building materials during finishing work. For such calculations, they usually use a calculator - online or desktop program - to achieve maximum accuracy of the result.

How to choose the thickness of the insulation layer

Thermal insulation finishing of the facade with penoplex is the fastening of sheets of various thicknesses, from 20 to 150 mm. Therefore, the question of whether it is possible to insulate a wooden house with thin slabs, and how thick the insulation sheets should be for the building’s thermal insulation to work long and effectively, remains relevant and can be solved by simple calculations.

In the calculations, the main emphasis is on the fact that the insulation of the facade with penoplex, the technology of which is described above, must have a total multilayer structure not lower than the value recommended by SNiP for a certain climatic region. This parameter is a reference value and is indicated in the SNiP appendix. Local geological services also have this information. To independently determine the heat transfer resistance, use the map:

*For external walls, use the numbers in purple.

Each layer of a multilayer structure, including the wall itself made of wood, brick, concrete, etc., external and internal wall decoration - all these factors affect the value of heat transfer resistance, and depend on the thickness of the wall and the building materials of the walls of the house.

Having in hand the values ​​of the thermal conductivity coefficients of insulation and the thickness of the calculated thermal insulation, it is easy to calculate the difference in compensation for heat loss with insulation. And if you use the most unfavorable thermal conductivity coefficient of EPPS, equal to 0.032 (to create a margin of “strength” of the thermal insulation layer), then you will only need to calculate the thickness of the insulation.

The thermal insulation material penoplex has fairly high characteristics and has a number of advantages over many other thermal insulators, as a result of which it has recently become widespread. However, its use for external insulation of housing is associated with some difficulties and has a number of important nuances.

Therefore, in this article I decided to tell you in detail how to properly insulate the outside of a house with penoplex and avoid the mistakes that beginners often make.

A few words about extruded polystyrene foam

Before we begin the technology of external insulation of a house, let’s consider what penoplex is. I’ll say right away that it is more correct to call this material extruded polystyrene foam, since “Penoplex” is the name of the manufacturing company of this insulation.

Extruded polystyrene foam is made from ordinary polystyrene foam (foam plastic). As a result of special heat treatment, it acquires higher properties, and along with them, properties that affect the installation technology and the area of ​​application of the material.

These properties primarily include:

• low level of moisture absorption;
• smooth structure.

On the one hand, this allows the material to be used in unfavorable operating conditions; in particular, it can be used for façade insulation. But, on the other hand, penoplex has poor adhesion. Therefore, it is not even a material, much less intended for “wet” finishing.

The most common mistake made by beginners is that when insulating a facade, they work with penoplex in the same way as with ordinary polystyrene foam. Some construction resources “help” with this, for which would-be specialists write articles. The result of this approach is clearly visible in the photo below.

However, this does not mean that insulating the facade using the “wet” method using penoplex will have to be abandoned. The technology that I will discuss below will allow you to create a reliable and durable finish on top of this insulation.

Beginners probably have a question: why use penoplex if it can be replaced with polystyrene foam, which is cheaper and has good adhesion?

The fact is that extruded polystyrene foam has several important advantages over polystyrene foam:

• has higher strength, and accordingly, the façade finish is more durable;
• is a vapor-permeable material;
• thermal conductivity is lower than that of foam.

Therefore, it makes sense to use penoplex for “wet” finishing of the facade. As for the “dry” insulation, which is used for a suspended facade, this procedure practically does not contain any special features.

Below I will tell you in detail how to insulate external walls with penoplex using both methods.

Installation of a wet facade

First of all, let’s look at how to perform penoplex insulation using the “wet facade” technology, since it is this technology that raises the most questions and disputes. The advantage of this technology is that it can be used not only for thermal insulation of houses, but also apartments (for this you must obtain the appropriate permit).

In addition, this solution allows you to give the building a respectable appearance. The only thing I note is that for a number of reasons this technology should not be used for thermal insulation of wooden houses.

The insulation process consists of several stages:

Preparation of materials

First of all, you need to prepare the materials. At this stage, it is extremely important to choose the right glue for penoplex. I recommend using a special adhesive foam for these purposes, for example, FastFix from the same Penoplex.

In addition to glue, you also need to prepare some other materials:

• Ceresit CT83 glue, which will be used for plastering;
• fiberglass reinforcing mesh for exterior use;
• perforated corners;
• facade decorative plaster;
• facade paint;
• adhesive primer;
• deep penetration primer.

The thickness of the penoplex for insulating the facade should be at least 5 cm. But, it is advisable to lay the slabs in two layers so that the thickness of the insulation is 10 cm.

After preparing all these materials, you can begin to work.

Preparing the walls

So, before covering the walls with penoplex, you need to prepare them.

This work is carried out as follows:

1. remove from the walls all elements that may interfere with the finishing - canopies, antennas, etc.;
2. Next, it is necessary to provide a reliable foundation, i.e. if you notice, for example, peeling areas of old plaster, you need to get rid of them;
3. after this, wipe the facade with a damp cloth or vacuum so that there is no dust on the surface;
4. Now the surface of the walls needs to be primed with a deep penetration façade primer. The most convenient way to do this work is with a paint roller; you can also use a brush.

The primer must be applied in an even, thin layer. After the walls dry, be sure to repeat the procedure..

This completes the preparation process.

Gluing penoplex

Now you can start gluing the facade with penoplex.

Instructions for doing this work look like this:

1. First of all, it is advisable to attach a starting profile from below along the perimeter of the facade, which will allow you to level the bottom row of insulation. The profile is installed using dowel nails. Wherein It is extremely important to position the profile correctly, so use a level while working;

1. after this, the adhesive foam is applied to the penoplex around the perimeter and center of the slab, as shown in the photo above. Moreover, it is advisable to apply even a few strips of foam in the center;
2. Now you need to glue the plate to the wall. Work starts from the corner - insert the slab into the guide profile and lightly press it against the wall. Be sure to check the position of the insulation with a level;
3. then the entire first row is glued using this principle. Try to place the slabs as closely as possible to each other so that there are no gaps;
4. then the second row is glued on. It must be mounted offset, i.e. in a checkerboard pattern, and with bandaging of the corners;

1. After all the walls are covered with insulation from top to bottom, it is necessary to install penoplex on the slopes. To do this, cut the slabs into panels of the required width and paste them over the window openings and;
2. Now it is necessary to additionally fix the slabs of extruded polystyrene foam with special dowels, which are popularly called “umbrellas” or “fungi”. To install the dowel, you need to drill a hole in the wall directly through the insulation. The hole must match the diameter of the dowel, the length should be 5-10 mm longer.

As for the location of the dowels, it is advisable to install them in the corners at the joints so that one head fixes several slabs at once; in addition, one or two dowels should be placed in the center. Keep in mind that the caps must be recessed.

As for the slopes, there is no need to fix them with dowels.

For complete external insulation of the house, it is advisable to insulate the foundation. The technology is quite simple - the foundation is dug up, cleared of dirt, then covered with penoplex (can be glued to the bridge), and then buried.

This completes the process of gluing the facade.

Surface preparation

Now it is extremely important to properly prepare the surface of extruded polystyrene foam with your own hands for further finishing.

This operation is performed as follows:

1. First of all, it is necessary to make the surface of the penoplex rough. To do this, rub it with a metal brush, a jointer with sandpaper or a special foam grater. You can also treat the surface with a needle roller;
2. after the surface of the insulation becomes rough, the facade should be treated with an adhesive primer, which is applied according to the scheme described above;

1. then you need to fill the gaps between the slabs with the same foam that was used to glue the penoplex to the wall;
2. Next, perforated aluminum corners must be glued to all external corners, including slopes, using Ceresit CT 83 glue or its equivalent. When installing the corners, be sure to use a level to ensure that the corners are strictly horizontal or vertical.

After such preparation, you can begin reinforcement.

Reinforcement

External finishing of penoplex begins with reinforcement, which is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. start reinforcement from the slopes. To do this, first cut the mesh according to the dimensions of the slopes so that it is located with a turn at the corners;
2. dilute Ceresit ST 83 glue in water;
3. then apply glue 4-5 mm thick to the slope;
4. move over the glue-treated surface with a notched spatula;
5. then apply the mesh to the slope and run it over its surface with a spatula. As a result, the canvas should be completely immersed in the glue;
6. The façade walls are also reinforced using the same scheme. Do not forget that the canvases should overlap each other by 10 cm;
7. After the surface has dried, apply another layer of glue, trying to level the walls as much as possible.

This completes the surface reinforcement.

Decorative finishing

Now you can begin decorative finishing, which is carried out as follows:

1. treat the facade with a primer according to the scheme described above;
2. then the surface is covered with decorative plaster. The composition is diluted in water according to the instructions on the package and applied in an even thin layer;

1. after 5-7 minutes, when the decorative plaster begins to set, its surface is rubbed with plaster powder. To do this, you should make reciprocating or circular movements;
2. After the decorative plaster has dried, the facade must be painted using a paint roller. Let me remind you that the paint is applied in two layers. In order for the coating to look neat, each layer must be applied evenly and without drips.

Here, in fact, are all the nuances of installing a wet facade.

Curtain facade

An equally common technology for insulating houses with penoplex is a curtain wall façade.

It has some important advantages over the “wet facade”:

• There is no wet work during the installation process, so insulation can be done at any time of the year;
• there is a large selection of facade finishing materials;
• the finish is more durable and durable.

As mentioned above, a “wet facade” using penoplex is not suitable for wooden houses. This raises the question: is it possible to insulate a wooden house with penoplex? I’ll say right away that such finishing is allowed, however, it also has its own subtleties, which we will get acquainted with below.

The technology for arranging a curtain façade also consists of several stages:

Preparation of materials

To insulate a house using this method, you will need the following materials:

• wooden slats or metal profiles and brackets;
• vapor barrier film;
• glue foam;
• protective impregnation for wood;
• finishing material - lining, vinyl siding, etc.

Preparing the walls

If the walls of the house are made of brick, blocks or other similar materials, preparation is carried out according to the scheme described above.

If the walls are wooden, built from timber or logs, preparation is carried out as follows:

1. the walls need to be wiped from dust and dirt, and then treated with protective impregnation;
2. then it is necessary to insulate the inter-crown cracks by filling them with any suitable thermal insulation material.

Now the walls are ready for insulation.

Frame installation and wall insulation

There are several ways to make a frame.

As an example, I will tell you how to make a structure on brackets:

1. First of all, you need to mark the location of the racks in the form of vertical lines. The optimal distance between them is 50 cm;
2. then, on the marked lines, brackets are attached to the wall, also in vertical increments of 50 cm. To fix them, you can use self-tapping screws or dowel nails;

1. After that, we cover the walls with penoplex, which is strung on brackets, as in the photo above. It must be said that it is not necessary to use glue in this case, the only thing is that it is advisable to secure each slab with at least one dowel;
2. If a wooden house is insulated with penoplex, there is no need to fill the cracks with foam, as this will improve the vapor permeability of the insulation, which is important for wooden walls. If the walls are brick or other material, the cracks should be filled with foam;
3. if the house is wooden, the surface of the insulation must be covered with a vapor barrier film so that moisture does not get through the cracks onto the walls. You can grab the vapor barrier with umbrella dowels;

1. Then metal racks or wooden beams are fixed in the brackets. During the installation process, it is necessary to ensure that they are all installed in the same vertical plane..

This completes the insulation and installation of the frame. It must be said that in the case of insulating a wooden house, you can first sheathe the walls with extruded polystyrene foam, and then attach the sheathing slats to them with self-tapping screws directly through the insulation.

Finishing

The final stage is finishing, which does not contain any special features, so let’s consider this procedure briefly using the example of installing vinyl siding:

1. a starting profile is installed around the perimeter of the house in a horizontal position;
2. Next, corner profiles are installed on the outer and inner corners;
3. then the first row of vinyl siding is installed, which is connected from below with a hook to the hook of the starting profile, and from above is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws;

1. the second row from below clings to the hook of the first row, and from above it is fixed in the same way with self-tapping screws. The entire frame is sheathed according to this principle;
2. before installing the last row, the finishing profile is installed, after which the top row is connected to the penultimate one and tucked into the profile;
3. At the end of the work, additional elements are installed - slopes, ebbs, etc.

The sheathing of the frame and lining will be done in approximately the same way, the only thing is that the boards are connected to each other using a tongue/groove locking connection. In addition, corner trims are installed after sheathing the frame, and not before, as is the case with vinyl siding and other similar materials.

Conclusion

Despite the fact that penoplex is not a façade heat-insulating material, it can be used to insulate walls with high quality, even using a “wet” method. However, for this it is necessary to observe all the subtleties of this work, which I described above. Otherwise, you will be wasting your time, money and your own energy.

I recommend watching the video in this article, which clearly shows how façade insulation is done with penoplex. If any of your questions remain unanswered, feel free to ask questions in the comments, and I will definitely answer you.