Laying a round well made of bricks. Technology of well masonry of brick walls. Brick sewer well

Often, owners of country houses have to solve the problem of water supply. To do this, they need to drill a well or equip a brick well. Every home craftsman can do it with his own hands, but before that, learn how to do the work correctly and what tools to use.

To lay a round well, clay bricks are used, which are laid on cement mortar.

Construction of a brick well

Typically a well has a wall thickness of 250-370 mm, which is determined by its depth.

To dig a well you must have the following tools:

shovels with long and short handles;
buckets for raising soil;
rope with hook;
tripod, a chain winch is installed on it;
ladder;
pump.

Make sure that the bottom of the well is strictly horizontal. You must make 3 round frames in advance. Their diameter should be from 1 m and increase progressively.

The bottom frame is made of metal, the remaining two are made of wood. The diameter of the main frame should be 50 mm larger than the auxiliary ones, its width should be equal to the dimensions of the masonry;
on its outer side, install a steel knife that follows the shape of the frame;
for the manufacture of auxiliary frames, use wood 80 mm thick;
To make a brick well more durable, the frames are strengthened by inserting anchors with a diameter of 15 mm into them. They are installed in them and secured with nuts and washers;
then you lower the mounted and carefully aligned frames into the well, carefully checking the horizontal installation of the frame.

Place the intermediate frame on the horizontally mounted main frame and fasten them with nuts and washers. Check that the anchors are straight up. The entire structure is secured with boards, poles, and logs.

Features of brickwork

A high-quality well often depends on the right tool:

trowel;
jointing;
hammer-pick;
plumb line, level;
square;
staples with cross bar.

The brickwork of the well is made of simple brick; silicate brick is not suitable for this work due to its technical characteristics.

To prepare a mortar for masonry, take cement of at least grade 150 and mix with sand in a ratio of 1:2 or 1:3, add water, stir well to the desired condition.

Lay the first row of bricks, pre-moistened with water, with your own hands on the mortar you prepared, 10 mm thick;
The first and second rows are laid using the butt method. Due to the fact that your masonry is round, you need to lay mortar in the remaining gap from the outside. Make sure that your masonry is completely filled with it.

Tools for bricklaying: ordering, trowel, pick-hammer, mooring cord, jointing, plumb line, building level, mortar shovel, rule.

The well can be made of bricks, or maybe with spoons. They are placed alternating with each other. The brickwork of the well must be done with the correct bandaging of the seams, this serves as a guarantee of its strength.

To ensure that your DIY brick well has the correct round shape, make a template. He will help you to ensure that the laying of the well proceeds easily and efficiently, even if you do not have the necessary skills. The template is attached to a row of bricks using simple hooks.

Having laid out a row with your hands, begin to lay the second one, while gradually lifting the template, placing it opposite the next row of bricks;
When laying a brick well with your own hands approaches the next anchor, a hole is cut out for it. Fill the resulting voids between the anchor and the brick tightly with mortar;
To make your well stronger, lay thin reinforced wire in it every 5 rows of masonry.

Place it 30 mm from the edge of the masonry.

Lay the brickwork with your own hands so that it does not reach the template, otherwise it will not come out well from the well masonry.

Make sure that the masonry does not rest against the intermediate frame. First you need to insert anchors into it and rigidly fasten the next intermediate frame to the main one.

Be sure to check that the frames are strictly horizontal and vertical. Establish verticality using anchors, and check using a plumb line. Check the strength of the installation of the structure, and then continue laying the brick well with your own hands;
stop the masonry 50 mm before the intermediate frame. Fill the gap between the masonry and the frame with mortar; you can add crushed stone or gravel to it. This can be done using a board. Tamp the solution thoroughly.

Press the frame onto this layer, try to press it more tightly. Do not forget to cut out nests in the bricks for the ends of the anchors, then the frame will lie tightly on the mortar.

The long side of the brick is the spoon. The side of the brick is called poking. Bed - this is the name of the upper and lower surface of the brick. Chamfer - a cut along the edge of a brick.

if water enters your brick well from the sides, then do not forget to leave windows for installing filters; they can be made of porous concrete;
If your well is deep enough, then to service it, install steel brackets and securely fasten them in the masonry. The depth of their fastening must be at least 120 mm at a distance of 200 mm. A double layer of waterproof paint can protect them from rust;
It is advisable to plaster the outside of the masonry; for this, the foundation pit must be prepared of the proper size. Plastering must be done with a solution that is prepared in proportions of 1:1 or 1:2. Dilute with water and stir until thick sour cream forms. Apply the plaster at a time and carefully level it with a trowel. Use the solution within an hour. The longer it stands, the less its strength;
to reduce friction between the masonry and the ground, you can cover the distance between the main frame and the first additional ring with boards, mounting them vertically, but this must be done so that they do not interfere with the masonry;
The inner walls of a do-it-yourself well must be plastered with high quality. They are usually plastered in two stages, but remember that you can only apply the plaster after you have completed the first grip or tier.

Prepare the solution in the same way as for plastering the outer masonry wall. Before applying it to the masonry, prepare a more liquid solution, which is applied in a layer of 5 mm. It penetrates freely and fills all uneven places in the masonry and sets perfectly. Then a second, thicker layer is applied to it. Carefully level it. For better quality work, you can install beacons. They can be made from mortar or from specially prepared wooden slats. Apply the solution and rub it, leaning on the slats as a rule.

Plastering is carried out from top to bottom. The wooden ring you made at the junction of the frames does not need to be plastered.

Having completed the work of plastering the so-called first grip (the distance between the first frames), begin excavation, and do not forget to periodically check the verticality and horizontality of your structure;
then the brickwork of the second section is made, followed by plastering;
When the well reaches the aquifer, determine where the water comes from. If it comes from the side walls, then insert filters into the holes you left. If - from the bottom, then seal these holes with bricks and plaster. If water interferes with work, pump it out with a pump;
During this time, the solution will set and continue to harden under water;
To prevent the well from sinking further into the ground, place concrete ties or large flagstones under the legs, their edges should protrude outward by at least 250 mm.

Scheme of a circular well made of bricks: a - from butts; b - from pokes and spoons: 1 - template; 2 - widened cement mortar joint.

Your well is ready, pour gravel with sand or crushed stone onto the bottom. This will be an environmentally friendly filter; its thickness should be 50 cm. After this, do not forget to carefully remove all debris that remains after work and disinfect the well and water.

Before drinking water, have it tested in a special laboratory. If everything is fine, you can use the water from the well for drinking and cooking.

To prevent debris from getting into the well, make a lid and a roof over it. At the same time, it will serve as decoration for him.

I think that with a little skill in working with bricks, it is quite possible to build such a stove yourself. As I understand from the question, you need a stove with three vertical channels. For a small room, the stove that I will offer below is suitable. For work we need

Two valves were chosen because the furnace has summer and winter combustion modes. So, let's begin. We lay out the first row on the foundation prepared in advance.

The second row bandages the first

On the third row we install the blower door

on the fourth row we continue to make the ash chamber, form a horizontal lower channel and install a cleaning door

on the fifth row we close the blower door and continue the construction of the lower horizontal channel

on the sixth row the horizontal channel and the cleaning door are blocked

as a result of this operation, we obtain two vertical smoke channels, and the left channel numbered 1 will directly connect to the pipe and serve at the same time to perform the summer function, and the channel numbered 3 will directly participate in heating the furnace array

On the seventh row we install the combustion door and continue to form the channels

with the eighth row we tie the previous one and form another vertical channel

At the same time, we also install a summer valve here, when opened, hot gases will directly escape into the pipe, and when closed, the entire furnace will start working.

The ninth row is exactly the same as the eighth, but on it we already place a jumper over the fire door, which will prevent the brick from falling

on the tenth row we close the combustion door and do not forget to make a connection between 1 and 2 vertical channels (otherwise the stove simply will not work)

On the eleventh row we lay a cast iron slab. This is done as follows. First, we lay the slab on the brick, then outline it with a pencil, remove the slab, and then use a grinder to cut out the brick to a depth of 15 mm using a grinder, so that we can then insert the slab flush into the resulting groove. The slab is placed on an asbestos cord and its horizontal position is checked

Starting from the twelfth row we make a heating shield

From the thirteenth to the eighteenth row everything goes as in the twelfth. On the eighteenth row we install a winter shutter, then on the nineteenth row we continue construction, and on the 20th and 21st rows we block all channels except the first. From channel 22 we begin to build the pipe. As you can see, in the process of work you have to cut a lot of bricks, so I advise you to buy a diamond wheel for an angle grinder, it will save you a lot of nerves and time.

Each owner plans the water supply of the site based on its capabilities. If there is a water supply system, specialized organizations can supply water. This will save you from unnecessary worry.

But often the issue of water supply to a site can be solved by building a well. You can provide water to a plot or house by lowering a pump into a well. Brick well masonry is especially popular. This is the easiest way for a novice master. By reading a few helpful tips and putting in a little effort, you can build a well on your property and solve your water problem.

Before you start digging a well, you need to determine whether there is water in the area. For this purpose, test drilling is done. The most accurate and reliable method. Sometimes the presence of water is determined by traditional methods or by plants growing nearby. More often, according to popular wisdom, drilling is planned, and then they study the soil and draw conclusions about the presence of water underneath it.

Hazel and willow growing near the site indicate water at a depth of 2-4 meters, wedge or elderberry indicate underground water at a depth of 5-8 meters.

After reliable information about the water, you can start digging a well.

Well construction

When constructing wells, you must adhere to some rules:

decide on the location of the future well
consider the time of year for digging
observe safety precautions when working

The location for the well must be chosen in advance. It is not recommended to locate the well near residential buildings. Groundwater will erode the soil, and this will lead to settlement of the house or building near the well. The most optimal location of the well is 15-20 meters from a residential building. The well should also be located away from sources of suspected pollution: drainage pits, cemeteries, barnyards, fields with possible leaks of pesticides. Poisons that get into groundwater have an extremely negative effect on the human body, without changing the taste of the water.

The distance of the well from potential sources of pollution is 25-30 meters.

The most favorable time of year for digging a well is early autumn. The groundwater level is the lowest, which will allow you to dig a well slightly deeper than the expected water level.

Experts do not recommend building wells if the water is too high to the ground surface. So you risk being left without water during the hot period. Drawing water too deeply may result in unusable water. The recommended depth of a well is 10-20 meters. There are cases that drinking water remains at a depth of 50 meters, but it is not worth the risk.

What material is better to use for well masonry

To begin, choose the right construction tool; you will need:

spatula
pickaxe hammer
order
building level
mortar shovel
rule
mooring cord
plumb line
jointing

After checking the availability of tools, you can begin laying the well.

Well brickwork made from ordinary ceramic bricks, it is not suitable for a number of its characteristics. When laying bricks, decide on the laying method. This can be the method of bonded rows or spoon rows. Proper bandaging of seams during brick laying is the key to the strength of the structure.

Round brick wells are laid in bonded rows. A poke is the short side of a brick, and a spoon is the long side. It is important to lay brick lintels correctly. When laying lintels, bricks are laid narrowing on the inside and widening on the outside. Seal the gaps between the bricks tightly with mortar, avoiding voids.

Brickwork technology

Before laying a brick well, a concrete base 10-15 cm thick is laid. The soil under the base must be carefully leveled. Be sure to use instruments to check the level.

Carefully check that the bottom of the well is horizontal. Make three round frames, the top diameter is 1 meter, increase the size of the lower frames proportionally. The two upper frames are made of wood, the lower frame is made of metal.

To be sure of the correct shape of the future well, make a template. With the help of hooks it is attached to a brick row and the laying of a brick well will proceed calmly and confidently.

When using the template, even without professional skills, you will definitely complete all the work.

When laying, gradually raise the template to the next level of the row. To strengthen the brick layer, lay reinforcement every five rows. From the edge of the masonry, lay the reinforcement at a distance of 20-25 mm.

Make sure that during work the brickwork does not rest against the intermediate frame. Frames must stand vertically and horizontally, their installation is checked with special instruments. Check the level regularly throughout all work with a plumb line and level. Place the brickwork 50 mm apart, cover the area between the brickwork and the frame with mortar, and fill in crushed stone to save money and strengthen the mortar.

When laying, consider the following points:

The freshly laid mortar should be thoroughly compacted so that there are no gaps or voids. Then you need to compress the frame to fit tightly to it.
If water is expected to flow from the side holes, provide small holes at the bottom of the masonry in advance to secure the filters; filtering occurs by inserting porous concrete.
A layer of plaster must be applied to both the outside and inside of the brickwork. For the outside, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the pit in which the brickwork is made with a well. For the inner wall - the final diameter of the well. The solution is taken at a ratio of 1:1 or 1:2 and is produced quickly; the longer the solution stands idle, the weaker the plaster subsequently becomes.

When laying a round well, a gradual narrowing is made towards the top of the structure. To do this, the transition from the bottom to the top of the well is made with a gradual overlap of up to 3 cm. The narrowing is made on three sides of the well, leaving the fourth side vertical along the entire height of the masonry. There are running brackets on this side. They are built into a brick wall as work progresses in a checkerboard pattern and form a staircase. For a long service life, the staples are painted with waterproof paint before embedding them into the brick wall of the well.

Never forget about the rules for operating a well. Sometimes there is a need to clean a well and you need to go down into the mine. Before performing such manipulations, be sure to check the air in the well for the presence of carbon dioxide. To do this, you need to lower a lit candle into the well. If the flame does not go out, then you can safely go down into the mine. Otherwise, the well must be ventilated using an exhaust fan for 20-30 minutes.

Carefully protect children's access to the well. The well must always be closed with a special cover. To prevent children's play and debris from getting into drinking water.
See the video for more details on how the well is constructed:

One of the most common types of budget construction of brick walls is continuous well masonry. This is a method of constructing the outer walls of a building, consisting of three layers. When using this method of masonry, there are certain rules: bricks must be laid to create a longitudinal row, and they are connected by transverse bridges that form wells. The features of this construction technology make it possible to significantly reduce the consumption of bricks (savings of at least 15%) compared to the conventional type of brickwork. Various options for well masonry differ in terms of stability and capital strength, depending on the thickness of the external walls.

Well masonry is brickwork of two walls connected to each other by vertical partitions.

This is the oldest of all brick laying technologies.

Types of well masonry

Options for well masonry - top view (in mm):
A - well masonry with two bricks; B - well masonry of 2.5 bricks: B - modified well masonry; 1 - brickwork; 2 - thermal insulation; 3 - foam concrete

According to its modifications, well masonry is divided into many options. It could be two and a half, modified, lightweight.

In this type of brickwork, the layers are connected using vertical diaphragms. The distance between the diaphragms should not exceed 1170 mm.

It is worth considering that when choosing well masonry, you should not count on the high strength of the wall. Because of this, it is advisable to place mortar horizontal diaphragms two rows lower than the window openings and at the lower level of the floor slabs.

Such diaphragms can be mounted from reinforcing mesh inserted into the outer and inner layers of the masonry simultaneously. The mesh must be additionally protected with a layer of cement-sand mortar.

Single-row masonry, depending on the technology, can be chain, spoon, cross, Gothic, English, Dutch and cross. Multi-row dressing gets its name depending on the number of rows used.

Laying rules

Well masonry must be erected from two different walls located at a distance of up to 34 cm from each other. It is necessary that the walls are connected to each other using a bandage (the thickness of the bandage is a quarter of the brick).

Well masonry walls: a - masonry of a blind section of the wall, b - vertical section along the well; c - corner of external walls: 1 - insulation, 2 - transverse walls 3 - longitudinal walls (versts).

Initially, two rows of bricks are laid in the transverse direction on the waterproofing layer of the foundation (a feature of this type of masonry is that the materials must be laid very tightly to each other from the first row, without the slightest gaps).

In order to build a corner, it is necessary to start with connecting miles - external and internal.

To connect the well masonry into a single whole, you can use wire dressings.

The longitudinal walls are laid out. To lay out the second row of internal and external versts, it is also necessary to use the spoon method, while the laying of the transverse walls is done with pokes. The longitudinal walls are connected to the transverse ones using a dressing through one row. Only after the fourth or fifth row of masonry can the well be filled with insulation.

Corner masonry with three-row diaphragms: 1 - insulation; 2 - mortar screed; 3 - area of continuous masonry; 4 - mortar screed; 5 - diaphragms from three rows of masonry.

To increase the strength of the structure, it is advisable to lay out the corners with three-row diaphragms. Such walls differ from ordinary ones by solid masonry at the corners. The construction of the corner should begin by laying a pair of three-fours in the outer mile. So, starting from the 1st to the 3rd row, a continuous well masonry is made, which is a single-row dressing system. At the same level as the fourth day, it is necessary to reserve the place where the insulation will be laid. In its upper part you need to make a mortar screed, and, based on it, continue laying the entire corner with diaphragms.

It is worth considering that each layer of insulation must be compacted to a thickness of no more than 15 cm. Every 10-50 cm the backfill material must be watered with a solution. This method of laying will avoid the negative impact of the environment on the insulating layer. This technique will help to significantly increase the strength of a brick wall.

The placement of horizontal diaphragms at the level of a number of window openings and dressings will help increase the strength of the masonry.

In winter and autumn, the level of relative humidity of a brick wall increases noticeably, which reduces the thermal resistance of the material itself. In this case, the building construction method does not play any role. So, when constructing a well made of brick, it is necessary to follow the rules - to provide for a ventilation gap between the thermal insulation layer (the thickness of the thermal insulation must exceed 10 mm). Thanks to this gap, during the autumn-winter period, active drying of the building materials from which the walls were built is possible. In the lower and upper rows of well brickwork, it is necessary to construct vertical seams, which will later become the basis for organizing the movement of air masses in the ventilation gap.

Thermal insulation boards can be attached to load-bearing walls using expansion dowels and mounting adhesive. In order to increase adhesion, each wall surface can be treated with a primer before fixing the insulation.

The final step in creating a brick well is to fix the roll insulation and age it.

Features of well masonry

One of the features when facing walls with bricks in well masonry is its prolonged cooling and leisurely heating, which can be expressed in slight fluctuations in the average daily temperature.

Seam dressing systems are ways of arranging bricks in masonry to ensure the integrity of its mass.

Upon completion of the installation work, the bricks must be pressed against each other as tightly as possible. For example, a metal mesh is suitable as a reinforcing coating.

Seam dressings are used to give a brick wall properties such as strength and solidity. This concept refers to the order and shape of laying bricks on top of each other. There are dressings of vertical seams, transverse and longitudinal.

In order to prevent delamination of the wall in the vertical direction, ligation of longitudinal seams is used. They help rationally distribute the load over the entire area of the wall and brick. Transverse seams in adjacent rows of dressing should be shifted from each other by one quarter the size of a brick, longitudinal seams, in turn, should be overlapped by half a brick. So, the bricks of the bottom row will be overlapped by vertical bricks.

When laying out the last layer of brick, it is necessary to additionally install beams that will perform a supporting function for the lower purlins of the roof rafters and floor beams.

For more effective thermal insulation, it is advisable to wrap stone wool in plastic film. Mineral wool slabs are designed to be best secured using asbestos cement fasteners or plastic staples.

The insulation can be slag, expanded clay, cement mortar, with the addition of reeds, sawdust or chopped straw, or various other materials.

The outer brick wall at the point of contact with the inner one and at the corners in buildings with several floors must be reinforced.

It is necessary to take into account that in construction there are restrictions on the number of ligations of spoon and tie rows in the masonry, depending on how thick the brick is. So, if the wall is built from a single brick, it is necessary to place one row of joints per six rows of brickwork. One less row is built when thicker bricks are used.

Between the brick walls, the middle layer must be filled with insulation. It is desirable that it be a material that is resistant to biological corrosion (for example, it could be sawdust, slag or expanded clay). Bulk or molded insulation is widely used in the construction of well masonry.

Over time, wall insulation may shrink, which will reduce the thermal resistance of a row of well masonry. The so-called cold bridges—flexible metal bonds—can also reduce thermal insulation. This suggests that most materials must be selected long before the start of construction.

It is worth noting that many brick manufacturers, in order to reduce the thermal conductivity coefficient, can significantly increase the hollowness of building materials by producing slotted bricks. Thus, in brickwork, all voids become closed and the air enclosed in them begins to work as a highly effective heat insulator. It is worth considering that the percentage of brick voids has its limits. Thus, with an increase in voids by more than 50%, the capital density of the structure is significantly reduced.

Advantages and disadvantages

One of the main advantages of brick masonry is the ability to comply with basic SNiP standards in terms of heat loss, despite the fact that the wall is single-row (chain masonry) and its thickness is 64 cm.

Tools for brickwork: a - trowel, b - mortar shovel, c - jointers for convex and concave seams, d - hammer-pick, e - mop.

By using well masonry technology (another name is English), you can significantly reduce the load on the foundation, and accordingly, the costs for it are also reduced.

The disadvantages of this type include the likelihood of increased infiltration of air masses through air cavities. In order to prevent this phenomenon, it is necessary to additionally plaster walls made using the well masonry technique. To strengthen the structure, dressings are used.

Another disadvantage is the heterogeneous structure of the wall, as a result of which its capital density decreases.

List of tools

The most common tools for constructing brick wells are a trowel (another name for a trowel), a jointer and a hammer-pick. A trowel is a steel spatula with a wooden handle. It is used to level the mortar over the surface of the brick, trim off excess mortar and distribute it along the vertical joints of the brickwork.

To control the quality of masonry, the following tools are used:

mooring cord;
plumb line;
level;
rule (long and smooth wooden strip);
order.

Control and measuring instruments: a - plumb bob, b - tape measure, c - folding
meter, g - square, d - building level, e - duralumin rule.

The plumb line is the tool with which you can determine the horizontal level of the masonry. The rule controls the level of the front surface of the masonry and dressing. In order to measure the straightness and horizontality of adjacent brickwork, a mooring cord is used. The order is a pair of wooden or metal slats with serifs applied at equal intervals (77 mm - the size of an ordinary single brick together with the seam). It is used to mark rows of brickwork or determine the dimensions of openings. The order can be secured using special steel holders or brackets equipped with a cross bar.

In the case when it becomes necessary to cut a solid brick, use a pickaxe. For jointing, tools of the same name are used.

Types of bricks used

The most widely used clay brick is red. Silicate white is not inferior to it in properties. The only condition is that it cannot be used when laying fireplaces, stoves and foundations. For the purpose of wall cladding, special yellow facing brick is widely used.

Sides of the brick: bottom and top bed, spoon, poke.

According to their structure, bricks differ in hollow and solid. Hollow brick has round or rectangular through holes. It is worth noting that this has good thermal performance. To give the material an aesthetic appearance, aging can be done.

Builders have their own terminology for classifying brick surfaces. So, the wide edge is called bed (depending on the location - lower and upper), the side long edge is called spoons (and accordingly, the row that is laid with the long side to the wall is called spoon), the short side is called poke (a row laid across walls, called tychkovy).

The masonry also has its own specific name. So, the outer rows are called verst, the inner ones are called zabutka. For the inner row, you can even use chipped and broken bricks, even its halves. In addition to standard brick, ceramic stone can also be suitable for building walls - it differs from brick in a slightly larger size.

When performing face masonry, there are certain rules. When laying the front wall, you can use bricks of two colors. So, if you use bricks of different colors for the stud and stud rows, you can get a striped wall.

A well is sometimes the only source of drinking water outside the city. Construction of a well structure is a difficult, but feasible task for a man, and most often this procedure is simply necessary. We will tell you how to lay a brick well with your own hands, and also touch on many other useful topics.

Well construction

General information

In general, the well structure consists of the following parts:

Gate. It is a lifting mechanism in the form of a rotating log on which a chain or cable with a bucket at the end is wound. Instead of a gate, you can use a “crane”, but it takes up a lot of space and is somewhat more difficult to manufacture, and the technology itself is considered outdated;
Heading. This is the above-ground part of the mine casing, which usually has a roof, lining and other means of protecting the wellhead from outside interference. It can also be equipped with benches, a table, a lid with a lock and other amenities;

Blind area. It is done around the head after complete subsidence of the soil (1-2 years) to drain sedimentary water from the mine;
Clay castle. It is made around the top of the mine shaft to protect the structure from the penetration of surface water into the well;
Mine shaft. It is a cylindrical pit lined from the inside with a column made of concrete, stone, brick, wood or plastic. Serves to keep walls from collapsing and also prevents unwanted flows of water from penetrating inside;
Gravel bottom filter. A bedding at the bottom of a well through which water flows into it (if the design is imperfect). In structures of perfect type or with a sump, a bottom filter is not needed;
Water intake part. A section of the shaft from the bottom to the static water level (mirror).

Thus, it turns out that the well consists of three main parts:

Head;
trunk;
Water intake.

Clay castle for a well

The head is the mouth and allows you to easily reach the water, as well as lift it from the depths and easily pour it into the desired container. In addition, you can turn the top of the well into a real decoration for your site with your own hands. There are real gazebos and houses around the mouth, as well as mini versions hidden in a box with a roof for the well.

The shaft keeps the mine from collapsing and isolates the container from unwanted rock layers that may carry less than pure water.

The water inlet allows water to accumulate to its natural level and maintain its supply for users. In addition, in this part the final filtration of the liquid from a suspension of sand and other particles occurs.

Important!
Depending on the specific tasks, the structure of the structure may change, but the main parts remain unchanged.

Types of water intake designs

Based on the design and depth of the water intake, there are three types of wells:

Imperfect or incomplete. This type is distinguished by a shorter shaft that does not reach the impermeable underlying formation. Water is taken through the bottom by infiltration of the liquid contained in the aquifer; in terms of volume, this is the most shallow-filled type;
Perfect. In this type, the shaft reaches the bottom of the aquifer and rests on an impenetrable layer of rock. At the same time, the total volume of liquid increases due to the depth of the water intake, and a more active inflow is also observed;
Perfect with a sump. Here the mine does not end at the waterproof layer, but has a meter and a half deepening into the rock to increase the volume of the water intake. Sometimes the sump is completed if the productivity of the core decreases or water consumption increases.

Important!
For the needs of one average family with a standard household and garden plot, the productivity of an incomplete structure is usually sufficient.
Its construction is most suitable for DIY due to its simplicity.

Construction

Types of casing structures

You can build a well in various ways.

Regardless of the structure and design of the structure, its shaft can be strengthened in several ways:

A log house made of logs or beams. This method is considered the most environmentally friendly and traditional, however, the price of high-quality wood and the work on its assembly and installation is very high, which makes this method unpopular in our time;
Brick or stone masonry. It is a strong and reliable method of casing, but here you should also remember the cost of materials and the complexity of the work, since laying a brick or stone trunk without experience and skills in such masonry will be problematic;
Concrete rings. The most economical, safe and simple way to construct a shaft, since the work occurs simultaneously with casing, which protects the worker from being blocked by earth. It is possible to build a monolithic shaft, but this requires skills in the construction of complex floating formwork and knowledge of the basics of concrete work, reinforcement strapping and other subtleties of the construction craft;
With improvised materials. Here the field for activity is unlimited: they use metal pipes, plastic pipes and barrels, and all kinds of ring-shaped products. Some craftsmen build a well from tires with their own hands, but we do not recommend using such materials for storing drinking water.

Important!
The service life of the well will depend on the quality and strength of the casing structure of the shaft, and the quality and taste of the water in it will depend on the materials used.

Brick well

For those who have not yet decided on the shaft casing material, we will tell you about the construction of a brick column.

This method requires masonry skills and certain construction skills, so it is not suitable for everyone:

In a previously found place, we begin to dig a hole with a diameter of 1.2 - 1.5 meters. Depth - up to chest level;

We place a tripod with a lifting block or winch over the pit to lift buckets and stones from the depths;

We dig the ground until an aquifer appears, when water begins to flow, we pump it out with a surface pump;

We fill the bottom with a layer of fatty waterproof clay, which we carefully compact. If water oozes from the walls, then we line this area with a piece of plastic barrel without a bottom or a piece of pipe (diameter - 1.15 - 1.4 m), and fill the space between the walls of the pipe and the shaft with clay (we make a lock);

We level the surface of the clay bottom and pour a concrete ring on it for a well with an internal diameter of 90 cm.

When the concrete has hardened, we begin laying the walls. We use exclusively clay bricks, well-fired, without cracks or flaws. The masonry is bonded, the rows are shifted by a quarter, the cracks on the outside of the masonry are filled with crushed stone and mortar;

If the well is perfect, then throughout the water-bearing part of the soil we leave small gaps between the pokes - 1-2 cm, but not in each row, but every other row, or arrange them in a checkerboard pattern;

We lay out the entire shaft and build the head above the ground;

When the solution has set, we go down to the bottom and dig out the clay, and also remove the casing of the aquifer zone of the soil;
At the bottom of the structure we make a gravel bedding if the structure is incomplete;

We wait for the tank to be filled with water, then (after 2 - 3 days) we pump out the water until it becomes clear;

We make a clay castle around the walls of the head;

We build a roof or canopy over the head to protect from rain and debris, plaster the head itself, line it with stone or wood, and install a lifting gate with a handle and chain between the posts of the canopy;

Close the mouth with a tight lid.

Important!
If the depth of the aquifer exceeds seven meters, then it is better to abandon independent masonry according to this scheme, since there is a high risk of collapse and accidents.

Safety precautions during operation

Excavation work belongs to a particularly dangerous category, especially when digging narrow and deep mines. There is a great danger of soil collapsing from the walls of the shaft, and there is also a constant threat of dangerous objects falling down.

In addition, you will be lifting buckets of earth on a rope, and this adds extreme excitement to the process, since the bucket can break or tip over. But the most serious danger is natural gas, which can accumulate in the mine and poison workers to death.

To monitor the gas level, portable gas analyzers are used; if they are not available, you can light a candle in the mine face: a dying wick indicates danger. To remove gas, you can use a vacuum cleaner, a fan, various fans, lowered repeatedly on a rope down and up.

While working in the face, a ladder must be constantly lowered into the mine, and the worker must be tied with a safety belt with a cable by which he can be lifted. A helmet must be worn on the head, goggles on the eyes, and gloves on the hands. Working at depth without an assistant on top is strictly prohibited.

Important!
If the first signs of illness appear (dizziness, loss of orientation, drowsiness, nausea, deterioration of health, general weakness, depersonalization, lack of oxygen, breathing problems, other unusual symptoms), you should immediately inform your assistant and leave the mine as quickly as possible on your own or with the help of a partner.
If the discomfort is serious, you should immediately call an ambulance.

Failure to comply with any of these rules may result in serious injury, including death. If you are afraid of heights or experience symptoms of panic, claustrophobia, are taking strong medications, are drunk, feel weak or feel unprepared for the descent, then you need to postpone work and find a replacement.

Conclusion

Building a well is a difficult and dangerous job, but sometimes such construction is simply necessary. Our instructions will help you cope with this task, and the video in this article will show the process most clearly.

kolodec.guru

Where to place the cleaning device

When laying an autonomous sewer system, you must be guided by current regulatory documents and technical instructions. The process of installing sewer wells and the distance between them is regulated by SNiP 2.04.03-85 “Sewerage. External networks and structures.”

Several types of treatment facilities may participate in an autonomous sewerage system:

Inspection wells are necessary to monitor the operation of the system and the possibility of cleaning pipes. They are installed on long and straight sections of the sewer pipeline line.
Storage and filter tanks are designed to accumulate and dispose of treated wastewater. They act as the end points of the sewer system.
Rotary and nodal - installed in those places where the pipeline changes direction or other “branches” are connected to it. In these types of wells, the number of supply pipes should not exceed three, and the angle of rotation should be less than 90°.

When installing a storage-type sewer well, it is necessary first of all to determine the sewage outlet from the house. To ensure conditions for regular pumping of wastewater, access for sewerage equipment should be provided.

When constructing a manhole, it is necessary to maintain a distance of at least 5 meters from the foundation of the house. The distance between inspection wells should be 15 meters. The filtration well, the main task of which is to perform the final stage of wastewater treatment, should be placed away from sources of drinking water. According to current standards, the distance to a nearby well or borehole must be at least 25 meters.

How to calculate the volume of a storage tank

One of the key stages in constructing a brick sewer well is calculating its volume. The frequency of pumping out the contents will depend on the correctness of the calculations.

On average, 200 liters per day are needed per family member to satisfy hygiene and household needs. To obtain accurate calculations, focusing on a three-day “portion”, the total value is tripled. A three-day volume is always taken into account for the reason that a period of 2-3 days is necessary for settling sewage in a septic tank. So, for example, for a family of four people you will need a septic tank with a capacity of 4 people. x 200 l x 3 days. = 2.4 cubic meters.

Advice: to the resulting figure in case of an unforeseen situation that could cause the tank to overflow, you should add another 20% as a reserve.

The same formula can be applied when calculating the volume of a septic tank in which it is planned to carry out additional wastewater treatment using special bacteria.

Video guide to calculating a septic tank

Knowing the volume of the future reservoir, all that remains is to calculate the dimensions of the pit. It should be taken into account that the depth of the treatment plant must be at least 1.3 meters. The length and width of the boiler must be at least 1 meter.

For example, to construct a well with a capacity of 4.8 cubic meters, you will need a pit 2.6 meters deep with a length and width of 1.8 x 1 meter.

Important! The easiest way to increase the volume of a well while maintaining the required area for its installation is to make the tank deeper. The only thing is that when determining the depth of a treatment plant, you should focus on the groundwater level. It should be placed above the groundwater level, otherwise the installation will float.

The size of a brick inspection well should be determined based on the ability to freely carry out maintenance work on the septic tank and pipeline during operation.

How to make a sewer well out of brick with your own hands

Selection of materials

The first thing that needs to be prepared for the construction of a sewer well is brick. For construction, it is better to use clay bricks, which are famous for their increased moisture resistance.

The table will help you calculate the required amount of building material. When calculating the required volume, one should not forget about broken bricks. To do this, experienced craftsmen recommend adding another 5% to the resulting calculation value.

To carry out the work you will also need:

plastic sewer pipes;
PVC pipes D 100 mm for ventilation;
bayonet and shovel shovels - for digging and removing soil from a pit;
concrete grade B15 and higher, as well as sand or crushed stone for mixing;
bucket – for transporting bulk materials;
metal rods for reinforcing the base;
a hammer drill or grinder with attachments for making holes in the walls;

Digging a pit

The shape of the well does not depend on its purpose and can be any:

round;
square;
rectangular.

Most often, brick sewer wells are given a round shape. This is due to the fact that a round building during operation is easier to clean from accumulated wastewater.

Having decided on the dimensions of the structure being built, they mark out the territory and begin digging a pit. It can be dug out manually with a regular shovel or using earth-moving equipment. When digging a hole by hand, it is important to maintain the given shape as accurately as possible. The bottom of the pit must be strictly horizontal.

When building a brick sewer well with your own hands, you need to lay a monolithic slab - the base.

To do this, formwork is installed at the bottom of the pit for pouring the foundation. To give rigidity to the structure, the bottom is reinforced with metal rods. A solution prepared from cement, crushed stone and sand is poured onto the bottom of the pit, forming a layer 20-25 cm thick. On average, the solution takes from 5 to 8 days to harden. During this period, it is necessary to spray the surface with water from time to time.

When constructing a filtration well, the bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of sand 10 cm thick. Having compacted the embankment, a layer of gravel, broken brick or crushed stone 30-40 cm thick is laid on top.

Construction of brick walls

The construction of brick walls is carried out by laying bricks on cement mortar. It should be taken into account that brick, in comparison with the same concrete rings, has a more porous structure. Therefore, it absorbs much more moisture.

Cement mortar for laying bricks is prepared in a ratio of 1:3. To speed up the process of adhesion of the porous surface of bricks to the cement mixture, craftsmen recommend adding a saline solution to the mixture. On average, take one and a half kilograms of salt for one serving of the batch.

Important: when laying brick walls of a sewer well in the winter months, it is worth considering that it will take more time for the mortar to harden.

Some craftsmen, in order to speed up the hardening process of the solution, recommend adding any detergent to the composition. To obtain the required proportion, take 0.5 liters of detergent per 200 liters of water.

When constructing a sealed well, the wall is made solid; when constructing a filtration tank, the masonry is made with gaps. To do this, a gap of 5 cm is maintained between adjacent bricks of the same row, while the next row completely covers the masonry of the previous one. When making the first row of brickwork, it is important to provide several holes measuring 50x20 mm for inserting filters made of porous concrete into them.

When laying out a brick sewer well with round walls, craftsmen recommend using a ring-shaped template to give the structure an even shape. It is made of wood or metal, assembled from two halves, fastened together with several wedges. To prevent the template from moving during the laying process, hooks are used to hold it.

Attention! To increase the strength of the masonry, reinforcing bars or anchors are used, the ends of which are equipped with nuts and washers.

The finished walls remain to be plastered with cement mortar. After the plaster has hardened, the walls are “ironized” to create a waterproof film on the concrete surface. To obtain the desired effect, “milk” is prepared from sifted cement mixed with water. It is applied with a spatula onto dried cement plaster, forming a layer 2-3 mm thick. Ideally, the surface should be smooth and free of joints.

Arrangement of ventilation and waterproofing

To connect sewer pipes, holes are made in the well using a hammer drill. By inserting the pipes into the holes so that they extend 20 cm into the tank, the gaps between the walls are sealed and covered with a sealing compound.

To increase the moisture-resistant properties of the material, thereby extending the service life of the structure, the inner walls of the well are additionally covered with a layer of waterproofing. For this purpose use:

coating suspensions;
swelling pastes;
rolled materials;
insulating elastic compounds.

To install external waterproofing, a so-called “clay castle” is built. To do this, the voids between the walls of the constructed well and the pit are filled with clay mixed with gravel. Each layer is carefully compacted as the mixture is added.

The well cover can be made of a wooden panel covered with a layer of bitumen. To add strength to the structure, you can lay a concrete slab on top, equipped with a hatch for access to the tank. The well head is also round in shape.

In the sewer well, there will be regular movement of water and gases released during the fermentation of wastewater. Therefore, to prevent unpleasant consequences in the form of the spread of odor in the area, the removal of harmful gases must be carried out no less successfully than wastewater treatment.

To arrange ventilation, ensuring a free flow of fresh air, a piece of PVC pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and a height of 600-800 mm is inserted into the ceiling. The pipe is placed at an angle of 90° so that its upper end rises 20-30 cm above the ground. To prevent rainwater from entering the pipe, the upper end of the cut is equipped with a visor.

Video: building a brick sewer well

You can use a brick sewer well immediately after the cement mortar and plaster mixture have completely hardened. During operation, you only need to monitor the filling of the tank, using vacuum cleaners to clean it.

The building, which is so necessary on the farm, is still not a decoration of the site. If desired, the sewer well can be camouflaged by “covering” it with an arch with climbing plants, a decorative mini-mill or other garden figures, or it can be decorated by arranging a multi-level flower garden nearby.

stroy-aqua.com

When arranging our home in the private sector, each of us will sooner or later want to build a sewer system, without which there can be no question of comfortable living. It’s good if there is a central sewer network in the immediate vicinity of the house - connect and you’re done. What if you need to install an autonomous wastewater disposal system? Let's look at the construction of a sewer well on the site, find out what type we need, and how to build it correctly.

Well installation location

Before starting construction, determine where the well will be installed and what function it will perform.

- to select the installation location, determine the sewer exit from the house. If this is a storage well, and sewage will have to be pumped out of it using a sewage disposal machine, provide free access to it.
- if you are building inspection wells, then the distance between them should be at least 15 m, and the first of them is installed 3 m from the wall of the house, but not more than 12 m. In order not to pollute the source of drinking water, the filtration well is placed at a distance of 30 m From him/

A well can be made far from access roads, but pumping it out will cost more. In this case, you will have to pay for each “extra” hose.

Well size calculation

To install a drain well, you must correctly calculate its volume. The frequency of its pumping will depend on this. If the well will serve as a storage tank, make a simple calculation of its filling. One person uses about 200 liters of water per day. Multiply this number by the number of people living in the house, and you will find out the approximate volume of water drained into the well per day. Plus add to this result the water consumption of the household appliances you have.
When making a septic tank with the addition of bacteria to process sewage, the volume is calculated in the same way as described above, only you multiply the result by 3. The thing is that bacteria process sewage in 3 days. Therefore, the volume of the well should be enough for at least 3 days of use.

When installing inspection wells, determine the size individually so that you can freely carry out pipeline maintenance work in it. The depth of the drop wells coincides with the difference in the landscape. But keep in mind that deep wells are difficult to clean, so make them no more than 3 m deep.

How to build a brick sewer well with your own hands

Any brick can be used to build a well. The best option for such masonry would be to use clay bricks due to its moisture resistance. The well can be built square, rectangular or round. You choose its shape arbitrarily, but it is easier to pump out sewage and clean it from a round well. The wall thickness is enough to be half a brick. Calculate in advance the required amount of brick for the entire building. Based on its size, count the number of bricks in the row. Multiply the result by the number of rows.

Having prepared all the materials, get to work:

1. Based on the size of the well calculated by volume, mark the pit on the ground. A small pit can be dug manually with a shovel. To extract a large volume of soil, it is advisable to use the services of an excavator from the source: remcran.ru.

2. At the bottom of the pit, install the formwork to fill the foundation. Pour a foundation 20 cm thick from a solution of cement, crushed stone and sand. If possible, it is better to reinforce it. Leave the poured concrete foundation to harden for 1 week. Water it with water from time to time to strengthen it.

3. On the finished foundation, you begin to lay out the brickwork of the walls using cement mortar.

4. Finished walls must be plastered with cement mortar. After the plaster has set, but not completely dried, it is necessary to reinforce the walls. To do this, take dry cement and rub it into the wet plaster.

5. Make the bottom of the well depending on its purpose. For a sealed well, add a 10 cm layer of sand and compact it. Fill the top with a concrete screed with added crushed stone. For strength, the bottom can be reinforced with mesh. If it is a well with a filter bottom, then there is no need to concrete it. Place a filter layer of sand 20 cm and crushed stone or gravel up to 40 cm at the bottom.

6. Dried plaster on the walls must be waterproofed. To do this, take hot bitumen or waterproofing mastic and cover the entire surface of the walls.

7. At the entrance to the sewer pipe well, use a perforator to knock out a hole. Also, windows for pipes could be left in advance during brick laying, if it is possible to calculate their locations. After inserting the pipe, seal the gap with silicone.

8. At the last stage, all you have to do is fill the gap between the walls of the well and the pit with earth and cover the well. The ceiling can be made from a wooden panel, treated with bitumen, or a concrete slab can be laid. The ceiling must have a hatch for access to the well. Ventilation is required for the drain well. Therefore, install a plastic pipe with a diameter of 50 mm and a height of 600 mm into the ceiling. Place a mushroom on top. Fill the edges of the ceiling with soil, but so that it is 10 cm above ground level.

A brick well built with your own hands is ready for use. You just need to clean it on time. Let us recall that in the previous article we looked at how to build a sewer system from concrete rings with our own hands, and also prepared photo and video material.

kak-stroy.ru

Well construction

When constructing wells, you must adhere to some rules:

decide on the location of the future well
consider the time of year for digging
observe safety precautions when working

The distance of the well from potential sources of pollution is 25-30 meters.

The most favorable time of year for digging a well is early autumn. The groundwater level is the lowest, which will allow you to dig a well slightly deeper than the expected water level.

What material is better to use for well masonry

To begin, choose the right construction tool; you will need:

spatula
pickaxe hammer
order
building level
mortar shovel
rule
mooring cord
plumb line
jointing

After checking the availability of tools, you can begin laying the well.

Well brickwork It is made from ordinary ceramic brick; sand-lime brick is not suitable for a number of its characteristics. When laying bricks, decide on the laying method. This can be the method of bonded rows or spoon rows. Proper bandaging of seams during brick laying is the key to the strength of the structure.

Brickwork technology

Before laying a brick well, a concrete base 10-15 cm thick is laid. The soil under the base must be carefully leveled. Be sure to use instruments to check the level.

To be sure of the correct shape of the future well, make a template. With the help of hooks it is attached to a brick row and the laying of a brick well will proceed calmly and confidently.

When using the template, even without professional skills, you will definitely complete all the work.

When laying, consider the following points:

The freshly laid mortar should be thoroughly compacted so that there are no gaps or voids. Then you need to compress the frame to fit tightly to it.
If water is expected to flow from the side holes, provide small holes at the bottom of the masonry in advance to secure the filters; filtering occurs by inserting porous concrete.
A layer of plaster must be applied to both the outside and inside of the brickwork. For the outside, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the pit in which the brickwork is made with a well. For the inner wall - the final diameter of the well. The solution is taken at a ratio of 1:1 or 1:2 and is produced quickly; the longer the solution stands idle, the weaker the plaster subsequently becomes.

When laying a round well, a gradual narrowing is made towards the top of the structure. To do this, the transition from the bottom to the top of the well is made with a gradual overlap of up to 3 cm. The narrowing is made on three sides of the well, leaving the fourth side vertical along the entire height of the masonry. There are running brackets on this side. They are built into a brick wall as work progresses in a checkerboard pattern and form a staircase. For a long service life, the staples are painted with waterproof paint before embedding them into the brick wall of the well.

stroykirpich.com

Do-it-yourself brick septic tank: general principles of construction

How to make a septic tank from brick? Is the choice of this particular material for its construction justified? How to lay sewer pipes from the house?

Where to place a local treatment plant? We will try to answer all these questions. Multi-chamber brick septic tank. First, let's try to give a balanced assessment of the material from which we are going to build.

Advantages

No need for formwork. This makes brick stand out from monolithic concrete structures. Free-form walls. This property follows from the previous one. It is not easy to build formwork for a round sump or filter well; Here we can lay out a structure of any shape.

However: for a round well or sump, monolithic reinforced concrete casting is not used. In this case, the obvious choice is well rings.

Mechanical strength, which distinguishes the brickwork of a septic tank from plastic containers.

Flaws

It is very difficult to ensure complete tightness of the sump. Sooner or later, untreated wastewater will begin to filter into the ground through the seams. What’s even worse is that if the groundwater level is high, the septic tank chambers will be flooded. The price of bricks is quite high. Construction from it will obviously cost more than a monolithic concrete structure and in terms of costs will be close to the purchase of a plastic container.

Accommodation

The instructions for choosing a location for a septic tank are based, first of all, on the requirements of SNiP 2.04.03-85, which regulates the construction of external sewer networks and structures.

The minimum distance of the septic tank from the house and roads is five meters. The limitation is associated with the likelihood of subsidence of soil washed out by runoff. The distance from the border of the site is at least 2 meters. The distance from a protected water intake (in particular, an artesian well) is at least 30 meters, a weakly protected one (for example, a well that draws water from the upper aquifer) - at least 50 meters.

In addition: on a slope, the septic tank is always located below the house. The motives are obvious: it is necessary to ensure the movement of wastewater by gravity.

Sewage inlet

The laying of sewerage from the house to the septic tank is carried out in compliance with the following requirements:

Along the entire length of the pipe, a constant slope of approximately 2 centimeters per linear meter is maintained. Any counter-slope in the near future will become a place of constant blockages and the formation of fat plugs. The pipe sockets are oriented against the movement of the drains. Burrs on the inside of the sewer are carefully removed. All irregularities will begin to collect debris and again lead to a gradual narrowing of the pipe clearance. Instead of one 90-degree angle, you should use two 45-degree angles at turns. Remember that sooner or later cleaning will be required; a cable or wire passes gentle turns more easily. Finally, the main thing: external sewerage is laid below the freezing level of the soil. Where this is not possible, the pipe is insulated with a foam or polyurethane shell; Often a self-regulating heating cable is installed in the shell.

Laying at a considerable depth will protect the pipes from defrosting. Please note: the exception is regions in which the average temperature of the winter months is consistently above zero. Thus, in Crimea, open laying of street sewerage is practiced and does not create any problems.

Construction of a septic tank

So, how to build a simple two-chamber septic tank with your own hands?

General principles

It is better to separate the settling tank and filter well by at least a meter in space. Otherwise, the treated septic tank effluent filtering into the ground will wash away the bottom of the sump, which will sooner or later lead to its subsidence and damage to the overflow. The overflow can have a diameter of 110 or even 50 mm. On the side of the sump, it ends with a tee, whose outlets are directed:

Down. Through this outlet, wastewater is collected below the water surface, which avoids crust from its surface entering the filter well. Up. The outlet is used for cleaning. Towards the filter well.

The overflow design is clearly visible in the photo.

Sump

The size of the pit exceeds the design dimensions of the settling tank by 20-30 centimeters in all directions. The pit is successively filled with sand and crushed stone. The thickness of each layer is about 10-15 centimeters. A reinforced screed 8-12 cm thick is poured over the crushed stone. Reinforcement is a mesh with a mesh of about 10 centimeters, fittings or substandard pipes, corners, etc. The walls of the sump are laid out along the perimeter of the pit in half a brick. Masonry - with ligation of vertical seams from row to row; use ordinary cement mortar (1 part M400 cement to 3 parts sand).

Red building bricks are used for masonry. Silicate is not suitable: it quickly collapses upon contact with water.

The space between the walls of the pit and the brickwork is filled with compacted wet clay. The clay castle will provide additional waterproofing. The foundation pit (even in this case it is larger than the future well) is filled with 20 centimeters of crushed stone. A concrete pad is formed along the perimeter. After it hardens, walls are erected. Masonry - with gaps of a third of the brick: settled wastewater will drain into the ground not only through the bottom, but also through the walls of the well. Backfilling is carried out not with soil, but with crushed stone, broken bricks or other large drainage.

Filter well

Backfilling with large drainage increases the area of soil absorption.

Lids

For both the sump and filter well, the easiest way is to lay a finished slab with a hatch on top. The top of the lid is covered with foam plastic or other insulation, protected with dense polyethylene and sprinkled with soil. In addition to hatches, ventilation holes are provided in the covers, through which ventilation pipes with umbrella deflectors are installed 0.5 - 1.5 meters above the surface level. Ventilation should continue to work even after heavy snowfall.

Conclusion

As usual, this article will offer you additional video instructions for building a brick septic tank. Good luck!

If you live in a private house or in a country house, there is a need to obtain water for cooking and other needs. The easiest way is brick wells. Their construction will ensure the constant availability of clean water, for which you do not have to pay. Construction of walls in the pit from below

Concrete rings or bricks

A simpler and more profitable way to build a well is to build walls from reinforced concrete rings. If desired, you can even do all the work yourself, despite their heavy weight, using levers. Another advantage in favor of reinforced concrete rings is the high speed of construction; you do not need to wait for the solution to harden. Brick wells are well suited for areas with high groundwater levels, depth up to 4 meters. Its price will be higher than concrete rings, but it will be easier to deliver and lay the brick yourself, without hired workers.

Note! When constructing brickwork, you need to protect the area around the well from the effects of precipitation. Prolonged rains can trigger a soil collapse in an unfinished pit.

Preparatory work

If you decide to dig a well with your own hands, then before doing this you need to carry out soil reconnaissance to determine the presence and depth of groundwater. This article shows how to search for water in an area using drilling. Depending on the depth of the water, different types of wells are used.

If the depth is significant, then a better solution would be to use a tube well, since its design is more reliable and can be installed faster than usual, but you won’t be able to make it yourself. To do this, you need to drill a well and install a pump with a water filter. If the depth is not very great, then you can dig a hydraulic shaft well.

To obtain water without a pump, a special frame is installed. It holds the soil and does not pollute the water, and also removes the influx of water from the upper layers of the soil, which is not suitable for drinking.

Selection and calculation of materials

As a material for walls, you can use not only building bricks, but also stone, but it will be more difficult due to the different sizes of cobblestones. For these works, only clay bricks (for example, ordinary solid bricks) and cement mortar are used.

No other materials, such as double sand-lime brick M 150, are suitable for a well for two reasons: they quickly collapse under constant humidity. In order for the well brickwork to be durable, you need to select bricks without cracks and chips. To calculate the number of bricks for construction, use the formula for determining the area: 2Pi * R * h. where Pi = 3.14. R – radius, h – pit depth.

For example, calculating the area for a well 3 m deep with a radius of 0.5 m will look like this: 2 * 3.14 * 0.5 * 3 = 9.42 m2 The standard area of a brick face is 0.01625 m2, so in our case we will need 580 pieces. You also need to take into account the thickness of the mortar, but buy the material with a reserve for battle (also find out how to build a brick bathhouse with your own hands).

General construction technology

Brick wells come in two types: round and rectangular (square). Before laying, you need to make markings along the radius or extreme points.

Laying facing bricks with your own hands - FormMix

The width of the pit should be several centimeters wider than the masonry. Before laying, you need to make a concrete foundation; its height depends on the depth and presence of groundwater. Instructions for building a brick well The round walls are laid out with bonded masonry so that the small edges form a round surface inside. At the bottom there should be a working chamber with a larger radius than the neck of the brick well.

To form it, you need to shift each new row by 1.5-3 centimeters. Thus, the expansion of the well below will be due to the overlap on the walls.

For square wells, you need to make overlaps only on three sides, and the fourth side will be flat for installing the ladder. The ladder is made of U-shaped metal pipes (brackets). which are installed during laying in the wall. To ensure reliability of the masonry, adjacent rows must be shifted by. In addition, it is reinforced and plastered. Do not skimp on the mortar on the seams, especially on the outside.

For additional protection of the brick from moisture and greater durability, it can be treated with penetrating waterproofing. Please note! When digging deep holes, you need to pay special attention to strengthening the walls. The deeper you dig, the greater the chance of the ground collapsing.

To avoid this, it is recommended to strengthen the soil every 1 meter with temporary wooden rings. Even the smallest brick well requires at least one helper. One person works with the masonry - the second one supplies the bricks and makes the mortar.

Masonry from below

If the well is more than 5 meters deep, then the masonry is usually made from below.

To do this, markings are made at the bottom of the pit with pegs and the thickness of the walls is determined. Usually this is 1 or 1.5 bricks. Walls that are too thin may collapse due to soil movement, and the masonry will collapse.
For safe operation, you need to make 3 round frames: 1 main reinforced concrete and 2 additional ones made of wood. The thickness of the main frame should be 5-10 centimeters greater than the masonry, and the additional ones should be of the same diameter relative to the masonry. Holes for reinforcement are made in the main frame along the entire diameter. Metal rods are inserted into them to strengthen the walls. Additional frames are placed on top of the reinforcement and screwed with nuts (see photo above). As the walls are laid, they will rise, and eventually will be completely removed.
Water is pumped out from the bottom and laying on the reinforcement frame begins. The most important thing here is to maintain the evenness of the walls, this is especially difficult to do in tall structures. To do this, before starting work, you can make a round template for testing. At the same time, you must not forget to offset each new row relative to the previous one so that the seams do not intersect. The seams are sealed with cement-crushed stone mortar. Finally, the walls are plastered from the inside.

Laying on top

Laying on top is more difficult for novice craftsmen, and here you cannot do without the help of an experienced mason. This method is used for both small and deep wells, when built using monolithic technology.

The principle of the technology is to lower the masonry along a pre-prepared reinforced concrete base. A metal frame is installed in it (the so-called reinforcing knife). Unlike masonry from below, the reinforcement is immediately cemented into the concrete base, and not installed in drilled holes. When the base is ready, the masonry is done using monolithic well technology. In this case, plastering immediately occurs on the outside. Gradually the walls go down by removing the soil underneath them.

Conclusion

Wells with brick walls will be an excellent source of clean water if the walls are well protected from moisture from rain. If the depth of groundwater is large, then it would be more expedient to make a reinforced concrete well from rings or a monolith (also find out how to line a metal stove with bricks).

Despite the fact that centralized water supply is provided to rural settlements and even some garden communities, on the plots you can often find patriarchal well log houses with a gate. A well on the plot gives the landscape design a unique flavor. Well water is rightfully considered tastier than the one that has passed through kilometers of pipes, smelling of chlorine and rust tap water. In those rare cases when there are no water communications in the village, the well on the site is the only source of drinking water. Few people decide to dig a well with their own hands in order to provide themselves with water: it is hard physical labor, and it is hardly possible It will turn out to be such an unusual task for modern people, and hiring a specialist to drill a well is too expensive - these are the usual arguments of the average person. It’s better to wait until a car arrives that delivers water to a populated area, or go yourself with a bunch of cans to the nearest spring. But wells have always been dug in Rus'.

This was done by ordinary people who knew a little more than other residents. Let's try to figure out what it takes to build a well with your own hands.

What will you need for the job?

The principle of water supply for a private house or cottage from a well. The clear dimensions of the well are about 1-1.2 m, which allows the master to be inside the shaft and perform certain actions there. The excavated soil is lifted to the surface by assistants using a container on a rope. This means that for work you will need:

a shovel with a short handle; a container for removed soil - a bucket; a strong rope; a pulley block on a tripod or bars and a gate with a handle for lifting a loaded container; a ladder; material for strengthening the walls of the well: brick, concrete rings or wood for a log house.

If it is possible to purchase a portable gas analyzer, for example Oka-92MT, it is better to spend some money on its purchase. Gases that are dangerous to humans, non-respiratory or flammable (methane, carbon monoxide and carbon monoxide, hydrogen sulfide, etc.) often accumulate in deep underground structures. A short-term stay in a shaft filled with such gas is deadly! To protect against traumatic brain injuries in the event of any objects falling into the well shaft, the person working below must wear a construction helmet or, in the absence of one, a motorcycle helmet.

Where is the best place to dig a well?

Scheme for choosing a location for a well. Before selecting a location for a well on your site, you should contact a hydrological organization. Its specialists will help determine the depth of aquifers in a given area.

If there are already wells in neighboring areas, then all the necessary information can be obtained from the owners. To determine water quality, you can take a water sample from their wells for analysis to the local SES.

The optimal depth for digging a well with your own hands is the depth of the aquifer at a depth of 5-10 m. Greater depths create difficulties in extracting soil from the mine; at lower depths, there is a possibility of groundwater entering the well - high water. This water is not suitable for drinking; the groundwater layer is formed from precipitation penetrating from above and, as a rule, is not pure enough.

It can suddenly become depleted between June and September, especially in dry years. The location of the well on the site should take into account its sufficient distance from cesspools, toilets, sewerage facilities, cattle burial grounds, etc. sources of water pollution. According to SanPiN 2.1.4.544-96, the minimum distance should be about 50 m from the well to such places. The well should be at least 5 m away from the walls of buildings. If it is located too close to the house, it can lead to cracks in the walls of the building and foundation. Only taking into account all these requirements can construction work begin.

Well made of concrete rings

Diagram of a well made of concrete rings. Often a modern well is reinforced with concrete rings. This is a fairly strong and durable material. There are 2 ways to install rings inside the well:

using a truck crane, load them into the finished shaft; lowering method, in which the rings gradually lower the shaft under their own weight as it is dug.

Building a well with your own hands using the lowering method can be considered the safest, since the work is carried out in a shaft with reinforced walls and there is no likelihood of a collapse even with a large depth of the well. At the place chosen for digging the well, mark a circle with a diameter equal to the outer diameter of the concrete ring. Select soil to half the height of the ring.

Place the ring in the hole. This work is quite capable of 2-3 men. Level the ring and then dig the soil inside it: first around the circumference, digging up the concrete ring so that it settles, then selecting the soil from the middle.

When the upper part of the ring is level with the ground, check the level of the horizontality of the upper edge and level the structure, if necessary. To properly settle, dig symmetrically located niches in 4 places, into which the bars are laid. The concrete structure is then upset by hitting the top edge with a sledgehammer through a wooden block.

They dig a hole in the middle, where they scoop out the soil from under the concrete ring. Remove the supports and scoop out the soil from the middle of the well. After that, repeat everything. Place a tarred hemp rope with a diameter of 2 cm in the groove on the upper edge.

Roll and install the next ring as evenly as possible. Continue digging the well: first around the circumference, then choose the middle.

Do not dump the excavated soil near the well. When the depth of the shaft becomes too great and it is impossible to lift the bucket with the excavated soil to the surface with your hands, you will have to tie a strong rope to it and lift the bucket with it. To make work easier, you can install a pulley block (lifting device) over the shaft or install a temporary gate, similar to the one that lifts a bucket of water from a working well. This way, the ring structure is gradually lowered deeper until water begins to accumulate at the bottom.

While its quantity is small, it is scooped up and removed from the mine, lifting it up. To make work easier, you can use a pump.

Digging a well is stopped when further removal of water becomes impossible and its level rises to 1-1.5 m. At the bottom of the well, a bottom filter is formed from 3 layers of crushed stone or gravel. The fraction of each next layer should be 6-8 times larger than the previous one.

The thickness of the bottom layer of gravel is 10 cm, the next ones are made in a layer of 15 cm. If the aquifer is too saturated with water, then a floor made of boards is placed under the concrete support of the shaft. It is necessary to leave gaps 2-3 cm wide between the boards.

In this case, the gravel filter is poured over the floor. The head of the well (above-ground part) is made 0.6-0.8 m high above the ground surface. The installation of a clay castle around the well prevents rain or melt water from entering it from the soil surface. For a clay castle, they dig a trench 0.5 m wide around the head. Its depth can be 1-1.5 m. Clay taken out of the shaft is placed in the trench and thoroughly compacted. It is recommended to pour a concrete blind area at least 50 cm wide on top of the clay castle.

Well made of brick or stone

Scheme of constructing a well made of bricks. The red brick for laying out the walls of the well must be selected as dense and well-burnt. Sandstone or dense limestone and slate are suitable natural stone types.

They have a flat surface, which makes it easier to lay them in a dense layer. The well is laid out with stone or brick, starting from the bottom of the finished shaft. The thickness of the stone wall must be at least 35 cm. Large and small stones are laid out in separate layers.

Place the stone with its narrower side towards the center of the well, which will prevent them from being squeezed out by the soil. When laying stones, you need to ensure that the seams are bandaged and the row is horizontal.

The stones should not protrude beyond the general plane of the wall, either inside or outside the masonry. The bricks are laid out with a poke, observing the dressing, along the radii of the shaft circumference. The wall thickness in this case will be equal to the length of the brick.

The voids on the outside of the masonry are filled with broken bricks and cement mortar. The underwater part of the masonry is covered with a 1:2 mixture of cement and sand. The walls above the water surface are plastered. The head is made from the same materials, or decorative stones and facing bricks are chosen.

Well with a wooden frame

To build a wooden well, it is recommended to use a dry log or timber that is not affected by insects or rot. When making a log house for a well, different types of wood are used: oak and larch are the most durable. The service life of such a log house will be up to 25 years.

Alder, pine and aspen in the underwater part are preserved a little less - up to 20 years, but the surface part is subject to rotting and becomes unusable in 5 years. Therefore, you can combine wood for a log house, installing cheaper pine or aspen in the underwater part and removing the surface from oak or larches. Then the log house will have to be completely replaced after 20 years.

The use of bog oak extends the service life of a well frame to 50 years or more. But this material is quite expensive. Wood for felling should not be treated with antiseptics; the use of logs infected with insects and logs with rotten and rotten places is not allowed.

The deviation in diameter per 1 m of a log should be no more than 1 cm. Before installing the log house, the tree is cleared of bark and cut into pieces of the required length (1-1.2 m). Diagram of the construction of a shaft well. The log house is assembled first on the surface, each log is numbered with the designation of the crown and side (for example 1-A, 1-B, etc.), then the structure is disassembled and the logs are lowered into the shaft or the log house is built up from above, guided by these designations. The logs are connected in the corners of the underground part of the log house into a paw without any residue, the crowns are connected with wooden dowels. Log houses for wells cannot be caulked. The log house can be erected:

lowering method; building up the frame from below.

From the bottom, the log house is erected in shallow wells (up to 5-6 m) with dense soil and low water flow. Layers are placed at the bottom - sawn along the logs, a floor is made on them and then the frame is assembled in the usual manner. In deeper wells, the lowering method is used. The shaft is dug to a depth of 3-6 m, a frame is installed at the bottom and 3 crowns are raised above the ground. A niche is selected under the middle of each wall and supports are installed. Then they select soil in the corners and lower the frame, knocking out the supports. If the frame gets stuck, it is upset by blows to the upper crown. If the soil sheds significantly, the log house can get stuck so that in the future it is built up from below. When building up at the bottom, every 4-5 crowns, a crown with fingers is installed - the elongated ends of 2 opposite logs. Holes are selected for the fingers in the walls of the shaft, into which the long ends of the logs are secured. The shaft is deepened further, again making 4-5 ordinary crowns and installing a crown with fingers. This time a pair of long logs is placed perpendicular to the previous pair. The lowest crown is made of logs with a remainder of 50-60 cm. They will serve as support for the entire structure on an unstable aquifer.

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What is needed for this and how to do it

How to calculate

First you need to decide on the depth of the well and the thickness of its walls. The thickness of the walls depends on its depth. Typically this figure is 250 – 370 mm. It is also necessary to choose a brick for laying. It is recommended to use clay, as it is resistant to moisture. There are many tables that help calculate the required amount of building material. In the calculation, brick breakage should be taken into account; for this, another 5% must be added to the obtained value.

Well shape

round;
square;
rectangular.

Most often, owners opt for a round brick well. This is because this form is convenient to clean.

To work you will need the following tools:

bayonet and shovel shovels with short and long handles;
rope or cable with hook;
metal buckets;
tripod for chain winch;
water pump;
ladder.

To start work, you need to familiarize yourself with the types of masonry and choose the appropriate one.

How to lay a well out of brick. Types of masonry

Below are the most famous and frequently used bricklaying options:

Laying one and a half bricks: dressing is done in a continuous row. A wall of one and a half bricks is formed.
Brickwork of two or two and a half bricks. This type of masonry is the strongest. The bandaging is done completely, and the thickness of the wall increases by two to two and a half bricks.
Modified masonry. The youngest and most modern look. The dressing is replaced with lightweight concrete. After one to three rows, brick pokes are released, which, like anchors, connect the structure.

Operating procedure

A pit is being dug.
The bottom and walls of the well are leveled.
You need to make three frames in advance; their diameter increases incrementally from 1 m. The lower frame is made of metal, and the other two are made of wood. The diameter of the main frame should be 50 mm larger than the auxiliary ones, and its width should be equal to the dimensions of the masonry. For the manufacture of auxiliary frames, wood with a thickness of 80 mm should be used. For strength, the frames should be strengthened by inserting anchors with a diameter of 15 mm.
Lower the mounted and leveled frames into the well.
Fasten the frames with logs and boards.

How to lay a brick well with your own hands

For masonry, you need cement of a grade of at least 150. It must be mixed with sand in a ratio of 1:2 or 1:3. Water is added. In order to lay out the first row, you need to moisten the bricks with water, then lay them with your hands on the prepared cement mortar. Make sure that the thickness is 10 mm. This and subsequent rows are laid using the butt method. Place the remaining two rows using the spoon method. Next alternate rows. To ensure the strength of the well, the bricks are laid with the correct dressing of the seams and reinforced wire is laid every 5 rows. When the next anchor is reached, a hole is cut out for it. Fill the resulting void with solution. Lay until the brick reaches 5 cm from the intermediate frame. Fill the remaining part with cement. It is recommended to add gravel as filler. Compact with a board.

A well as a treatment facility. Some differences

The use of a well as a treatment facility affects the characteristics of the masonry. Some additional questions arise. The first important detail is where to place it. You should read the document SNiP 2.04.03-85 “Sewerage. External networks and structures.”

The second detail is to get acquainted with the types of treatment facilities:

Inspection well. Used to monitor the operation of the treatment system. Allows for pipe cleaning. These should be installed on long and straight sections of the sewer water line.
Storage and filter. Accumulate and dispose of treated wastewater. They are the final point of the sewer system.
Rotary and nodal. Used in places where the pipeline changes direction or other pipes are connected to it.

When building each of these wells, some nuances should be taken into account:

Regarding the lookout. This type is best located at a distance of 5 m or more from the foundation of the house. If there are several inspection wells, then they are located at a distance of 15 m from each other.
Regarding the filter. This type should be placed at a considerable distance from wells, springs and other wells with water. According to current rules, this distance should be 25 meters or more.

Secrets of building a brick well with your own hands

To speed up the process of gluing bricks with the cement mixture, add one and a half kilograms of salt to the mixture.
You can speed up the hardening process of the solution by adding detergent to it.
It is better to seal the “nests” for the filter with brick and cover it with plaster if the water comes from below.
To prevent the well from settling into the ground, cobblestones are placed under the legs.
For additional filtration, it is recommended to cover the bottom with a half-meter layer of crushed stone.
It is necessary to disinfect the walls with a chlorine solution. You can drink water two weeks after this procedure.
Cover with a lid to protect against dust, leaves, and insects.

Decorative well made of bricks

After completion of construction work, the well will not yet be a decoration of the site. Additional work will be needed to decorate it. One idea would be to plant around flowers. You can make a path to it and plant plants around it. The second idea could be an arch of climbing plants. For true craftsmen, you can make an above-ground part of wood in the form of a house. Adding carving to this. But you can also decorate with decorative stone. For round wells, a head made of aged brick is suitable. One of the ways to decorate is to install a concrete ring on top and line it with decorative stone. The second method is masonry. The roof of the head can be covered with any roofing material. Even straw will do, and you can decorate it with flowers on top. Instead of the usual head, a small mill is made of wood.
An interesting solution for decoration would be decorative figurines of clay and stone. From fairy-tale creatures (gnomes, elves) to ancient Greek heroes. Animal figures (deer, hedgehogs, frogs, etc.) will also look good. In addition to choosing a character who will live next to the well, you should also take into account its size.
When decorating, you should take into account the overall landscape design of the site and find a solution so that it fits into the overall atmosphere.

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DIY brick well