How to install a heating pump in a house. How to properly install a circulation pump in a heating system - instructions. Analysis of installation technology

The basic rule for creating any heating main is: the longer the line, the worse the water circulation in the system. For this reason, problems arise with uneven heating of rooms. The simplest and most convenient way is to install a pump in the heating system of a private home.

Why connect the pump?

Gravity heating is based on the principle of communicating vessels: water in the upper reservoir is heated by a gas burner and begins to flow through the pipes, passes through all the batteries and returns to the lower reservoir, from which it again enters the heating chamber. Using a natural circulation system, it is necessary to ensure a height difference sufficient for good coolant flow.

In practice, this is extremely difficult to do, so heating with natural circulation is characterized by a small heating area, a maximum of 60-80 m². For large, and even more so 2 or 3-story houses, you will definitely need to install a water circulation pump. This will ensure uniform distribution of the coolant along the entire length of the heating system.

In addition, due to the installation of the pump, fuel consumption is reduced. Water passes through the system faster, therefore, it does not have time to cool down too much and less thermal energy is required to reheat it.

An alternative option is to install larger diameter pipes. But in this case, the total cost of materials and work will be much higher, in addition, for houses with an area of more than 200 m², this still will not completely solve the problem.

How to choose a circulation pump?

During the cold season, the device operates 24/7. Low-quality options will not withstand the load and will quickly become unusable. To avoid this, you need to know the selection criteria:

pipe diameter;
boiler throughput;
water temperature;
total displacement of the system.

The pressure in the system depends on the diameter. Therefore, you need to know how many atmospheres the pump is designed for. It is better to buy with a reserve; at the time of the first start-up of the system and bleeding of air, water hammers are possible - short-term periods of increased pressure. If the device is picked up end to end, it will break. In addition, the inlet and outlet pipes of the pump must match the diameter of the system. Otherwise, you will have to purchase adapters and other fittings.

Some boilers heat 2-5 liters per minute, others - 10-20 liters. In order for the device to cope with the volumes, it must have the appropriate throughput, otherwise the pump will not cope and the device will fail.

Manufacturers make products using various technologies; the cheaper the pump, the lower the quality of the spare parts. Individual units are not always designed for temperatures above +60-70°C. In regions with cold winters, where the coolant is supplied at a temperature of +75-85°C, this fact must be taken into account.

One of the main elements of the circulation pump is the motor. When choosing a device, you need to understand how many liters will be pumped per cycle. The service life of the motor must be selected with a reserve; in addition, it is better to install a device that has built-in protection against overheating.

Types of pumps

There are 2 types of pumps used in heating systems:

dry;
wet.

The first option is large industrial pumps, which are used for heating systems of large plants, factories or apartment buildings. They are noisy, take up a lot of space and are more expensive than their counterparts. The main advantage is high power. It is recommended to install only for objects such as private hotels and boarding houses.

Wet pumps are designed specifically for insertion into a heating system. They work directly in the aquatic environment, so all components are resistant to corrosion and moisture.

The motor and other electrical parts are insulated with rubber gaskets. Therefore, when choosing a device, it is not recommended to purchase models from the market. They could have been in the sun for a long time, respectively, the rubber would have dried out and the device would burn out in 2-3 months, since water would flood the motor.

Choosing a place to install the pump

How to properly install a pump in a heating system? The main thing is to choose a suitable place. Basic instructions are included with the device. In addition, there are general recommendations:

Make connections to the system in places where there is easy access to the pump. There should be plenty of free space around so that diagnostics or repairs do not cause problems.
The direction of water supply does not matter much, but it is better to install the pump on a hot branch. This will ensure uniform distribution of the coolant throughout the heating system.
Most often, the pump is placed near the expansion tank. This is convenient and practical, since it is possible to check both components at once and, if necessary, carry out repairs or replace parts. When figuring out where to install the pump, you also need to remember that the device is noisy during operation. Therefore, the place should be located away from living rooms.

Tools and Supplies

Correctly connecting the pump involves preliminary preparation of the necessary equipment. To work you will need:

2 water pipes or 2 Swedish wrenches of the appropriate diameter;
fum tape 10 mm;
3 ball valves;
2 tees.

The basic set may vary depending on the type of pipes used.

For efficient heat distribution, it is better to connect the circulation pump before the start of the heating season. In this case, you can immediately check how effectively it works.

Circulation pump installation steps

The procedure is simple and consists of 3 steps:

inset;
connection;
examination.

Let's consider options for installing the pump on metal or plastic pipes. These options are different from each other.

Insertion into a metal pipe

To save time and do everything right right away, you need to:

Check the system for the presence of water and, if necessary, drain the remaining water.
Select the part of the pipe where the unit will be installed.
Mark points on the pipe for insertion of pump pipes.
Weld in 2 threaded pipes.

The first point is mandatory; if water flows into the welding process, there will be big problems, since the seams will not set correctly.

At the second stage, you need to check the selected section of the pipe for strength and inspect it so that rust does not appear. If everything is in order with this, markings are made according to the formula pump length plus 10-15 cm.

All that remains is to drill holes in the pipe and weld the pipes. Tap the seam with a hammer to knock off scale and check the strength of the structure. During the welding process, the welded pipes must be strong; make sure that the thickness of the seam is the same along the entire radius. The pump does not literally crash into the heating system, but is screwed to the pipes with special fittings. Before twisting, you need to wrap the thread with fuma.

Connection to a plastic pipe

The connection diagram for the circulation pump differs only in the absence of welding, first the tee, then the pipe. For maximum reliability, it is recommended to use the pipe soldering method. This will remove elements susceptible to corrosion from the structure. In addition, if metal nuts are overtightened, they often develop microcracks through which water then leaks.

Also, for both schemes it is necessary to install an additional ball valve in the area between the nozzles. This is done so that it is always possible to redirect water from the pump directly into the system. Accordingly, the device can be removed for repair or replaced without shutting down the entire heating system.

Installation of ball valves on a branch pipe

When installing taps, first install only the side that goes into the pipe, always onto the thread. For metal pipes there will be no problem if the diameter of the tap is different, just screw on the adapter. For plastic pipes you need to use special fittings.

They are either soldered to the pipe through a connector and an additional pipe with an assembled fitting, or fixed directly into the pipe using special clamping nuts. The second method is less reliable.

Let's take a closer look at why a crane is needed. If, even after installing the pump, the heat is distributed unevenly, or problems appear during operation, it means that the pump cannot cope with pumping.

Accordingly, you need to remove the pump and carry out diagnostics. If you do not install shut-off valves, this will not be possible, since you will have to stop the boiler and drain all the water. If there are taps, it is enough to turn them off, and the water will flow along the old branch, and the pump will be suitable for dismantling.

Pump installation

When the pipes are installed, all that remains is to screw the pump to the taps. To do this, wrap the threads with foam and tighten the nuts. Often the corners are included. Therefore, they are immediately screwed to the pump. If there are no components in the box, you need to separately purchase corners of the appropriate diameter and screw them to the inlet and outlet pipes.

It is not recommended to overtighten the nuts to prevent them from bursting. It is better to wait until it starts and check for leaks. You can tighten the fastenings later. You can use any scheme for installing a circulation pump in a heating system, but you must strictly follow the basic principles and follow the sequence of actions.

Starting the system

After all installation work has been completed, the resulting structure must be checked. In this case, the system starts first without a pump. This is a mandatory condition, otherwise water hammers will begin to occur in the pipes, which, at best, will damage the connections in the pipes, and at worst, will rupture one or more batteries.

Air penetrates into the pipes of an open heating system; it can circulate along the entire length of the pipeline and fill the voids. This leads to the appearance of plugs that interfere with the normal passage of water. To get rid of the problem, you need to bleed the air and only then start the pump.

Then you can move on to testing.

The procedure is done like this:

Turn off the valve on the supply line.
Open the tap on the supply pipe and wait 30-40 seconds for water to fill the pump.
Open the tap on the outlet pipe.
Turn on your device.

An important point is that the temperature of the coolant must be increased gradually. When heated, all bodies expand; if you immediately put boiling water into the system, the connections will not have time to smoothly open and leaks will appear. To avoid this, increase the water temperature from +40 to +70°C gradually.

up to 100 m² - by 5° every 10 minutes;
up to 200 m² - by 5° every 30 minutes;
300 m² or more - by 10° every hour.

This will allow the entire line to be heated evenly.

System check

For normal water circulation, the heating system needs to warm up. It takes 2-3 hours. Wait the specified time and check each battery by touch, they should all be at the same temperature.

If you find a hotter or colder one, try deflating. For overheated batteries, you need to bleed them in a subsequent radiator, for cold ones - in the previous one. Most likely, the problem will be resolved.

Another possible reason is a leak. Carefully inspect the connection points between the batteries and the pipe. Even if there are no obvious puddles, water may appear at the joints. Recheck the connection and the problem will go away.

The last uncharacteristic point is extraneous noise in the pump. In new models, this problem only occurs if foreign objects, rust or other debris gets into the pump. To avoid this, it is recommended to install a filter on the supply pipe. Eliminated by disassembling and cleaning the pump.

Installing the pump is easy; the procedure takes from 30 minutes to an hour. Starting up the system will take longer, but will also not cause any particular difficulties, but several operational issues remain:

The first thing you need to pay attention to is the position of the pump relative to the horizon. A prerequisite for the device to serve for a long time is that the motor shaft must be located either at an angle of 90° or 180°. Any misalignment will cause the bearings to wear out 2-5 times faster.
The main disadvantage of a circulation pump is that it does not work without electricity. If the owners are at home, it is not difficult to come and turn off the tap, but if they are not there, the house will not be heated.

To solve this problem, it is recommended to use ball valves with a check valve. The device works in this way: water is supplied to the pump as long as the pressure at the inlet and outlet is the same. If the outlet pressure drops, the valve switches the water supply to the gravity main.

This method will not provide the same high-quality circulation of coolant in the system, but the house will still be heated. During the day, the lack of heat will not cause much harm, but if the lights are turned off during vacation, and the owners were not home for 5-10 days, the water in the pipes will freeze and they will burst.

Don't forget to clean the mudguards. Metal pipes contain a lot of rust and salt deposits. The speed of water circulation after turning on the pump will increase by 1.5-3 times, accordingly, all the dirt will go straight into the pump. When first starting out, it is recommended to clean it once a week.

If after the specified time the filter is clean, it means that most of the debris has already been washed away. And the procedure can be repeated 2 times a year: after stopping the system for the summer and a week after starting.

Bearings wear out in 3-4 years in operating mode 6 through 6. If the pump operates in northern temperatures, 8-9 months a year, its service life will last for a maximum of 2 years. A sure sign that it is time to change the bearings is the appearance of noise in the pump. This happens because the shaft begins to rotate with play, resulting in increased load on the housing and all parts.

To avoid damage to the entire pump, it is enough to disassemble it and replace the bearing rings. These components are inexpensive, and the work itself takes 20-30 minutes. Remember, the device should operate without diagnostics for no more than 2 years, this will avoid costly repairs.

Powerful boilers quickly heat water, but due to the diameter of the pipes, it takes a long time for it to reach the radiators by gravity. The pump solves this problem if it is connected to the supply line. On the other hand, hot water negatively affects most components, so the device breaks down faster.

When there is no goal to warm up the house as quickly as possible, and the main emphasis is on durability, it is recommended to install the pump on the cold water line. In practice, this will extend the life of the device by 2-3 years.

Using these simple recommendations, you can maximize the life of your device. A pump for the heating system of a private home is a convenient and practical thing; if there are problems with heat distribution, there is no need to think twice. Determine the system parameters and buy the appropriate model.

Circulation pump improves the performance of heating systems.

The presence of such a device in the circuit will provide the opportunity to regulate the temperature in the rooms and increase heat transfer.

Most devices are arranged quite simply, allowing homeowners to install them themselves.

Functionality of the circulation pump in the heating system

The purpose is to accelerate and regulate the flow of coolant in the circuit:

in systems with forced circulation(especially if the supply goes to two or more floors);
in systems designed for natural circulation, it significantly improves heating efficiency.

Photo 1. Circulation pump model UPS 32-100 with a wet rotor, manufacturer - Grundfos, Denmark.

In private homes, a device with a wet rotor is usually installed:

silent;
not requiring maintenance;
With economical energy consumption.

For long circuits and systems serving multi-storey buildings, devices are purchased with a dry rotor, powerful, with high efficiency.

Such devices require regular inspection and maintenance. They have to be installed in special rooms or where their noise will not interfere.

What to consider when choosing the right location

When installing the device in the circuit, the following is taken into account:

correct orientation(indicated in the instructions, horizontally or vertically);
correct harness(correctly selected set of additional devices);
if present two or more branches, then the best option is to install a separate pump for each (in this case, it is possible to immediately achieve an equal temperature in the rooms for each branch and use fuel more economically).

Where is it better to install: supply or return

This is significant when installed in a system with a steam boiler, since the coolant at the outlet has a temperature above 100°C, which is unacceptable. On the return pipe, the temperature is set within normal limits.

Return — the only option for boilers solid fuel with the exception of systems with automated control.

Important! Boilers without automation often overheat the coolant to boiling, so steam enters the pump installed in the supply. This leads to an almost complete stop of fluid movement along the circuit and an emergency situation, even explosion.

The return pump may also be full ferry, but in this case the response time of the safety valve increases, which allows you to solve the problem and avoid disaster.

Where to put the pump: diagrams

Standard circuits for connecting a circulation device have been developed for various systems. The following important points are taken into account:

How the pump should stand: installation process

How to install:

Installation involves sequential placement of the necessary components, without which the pump will fail.

Shut-off valves(put on both sides, if necessary, the section with the pump is switched off from the system).

Provides separate branch for the pump (bypass), this will allow you to use natural circulation.

Additional items:

coarse filter(placed in front of the pump);
check valve(needed in systems with an expansion tank or when installing two pumps);
air valve to remove air from pipes(in some models it is built-in initially, then it is not needed in the chain).

One pump enough for the system with one boiler, additional devices are installed if:

two or more boilers;
complex circuit branches;
installed buffer capacity;
with a large length of the contour (several floors);
at “warm floor” system;
There is two or more boilers with different types of fuel;
installed heat accumulator(an additional container in which the liquid is cooled and supplied to the system if necessary);
pumping devices are installed on bypass, which will allow you to use natural circulation.

Attention! A separate cable with a machine is laid for the pump. It is not recommended to simply plug it into a regular outlet. For safety there must be grounding and an automatic device that triggers during power surges.

Owners of country houses often face the question of uniform distribution of heat throughout the house.

This thermal effect can be achieved in two ways:

re-equip the heating system by replacing large-diameter pipes;
perform installation.

If we consider these two methods from the point of view of economic benefits, then the first option will be more expensive and very expensive. Installing a circulating pump will prove to be an effective and relatively inexpensive means of heating your home evenly.

Let's talk in more detail about what this type of pump is and how to install it.

Purpose

This type of units is intended for forced circulation of coolant in a closed heating system.

The pressure created by the circulation pump must effectively cope with the hydraulic load of all elements of the heating system.

Therefore, in order to ensure the necessary pressure for coolant circulation, you need to choose the right circulation pump.

Calculation principle

To ensure maximum comfort in the house, you need to correctly calculate the required amount of thermal energy.

Installation of a heat pump for heating a private house:

This calculation is made based on the following points:

weather conditions in the region;
thermal conductivity coefficient of building materials from which the house is built;
installation of floor structures and ceilings of the home;
thermal conductivity properties of windows;
placement of the building relative to the cardinal directions, etc.

The result of the calculations should be the volume of coolant supplied to the heating system, which is measured in cubic meters per hour. This indicator will become fundamental when choosing.

Assembly diagram and details

The connection of the circulation pump to the heating system must be done using a bypass or bypass. A bypass is a pipeline parallel to the main one into which the circulation unit fits.

The bypass is carried out so that in the event of a pump malfunction or a power outage, the heating system can operate in autonomous mode.

Important point: The size of the bypass pipes should be smaller than the diameter of the main pipeline.

The outline consists of the following elements:

Two shut-off valves, which are located on both sides of the pump (if the device breaks down, you can close the locks and dismantle the pump to troubleshoot)
A coarse filter is installed to clean the coolant from clogging impurities that can affect the smooth operation of the coolant.

Advantages and features of installing a water-to-water heat pump:

Take note: When installing the pump, you should pay attention to the direction of movement of the coolant in the system. As a rule, there is an arrow on the pump body for correct installation.

So, knowing all the characteristics of circulation pumps, as well as installation nuances, we can generally distinguish the following installation stages:

calculation of the required thermal energy to heat the house;
selection of a circulation pump according to calculations;
choosing a pump insertion location;
connecting a bypass with a pump to the system;
coolant injection;
starting the heating system and bleeding air through the central screw of the pump.

You must always adhere to the rules for installing and operating pumping units, otherwise no one will guarantee the correct distribution of thermal energy throughout your cozy home.

Watch the video in which an experienced user explains in detail how to properly install a circulation pump in a home heating system:

How to properly install a pump in a heating system that already operates using natural circulation?

How to install a pump in a heating system being designed for a new home? Which shut-off valves can be used and which ones should not? Let's try to find out.

Are there any subtleties to organizing forced circulation in the heating circuit? Let's find out together.

Why do you need a pump?

Let's start with the main thing: find out whether it is necessary to install a pump on the heating if it has been working properly without it for many years. What will change?

The inertia of the system will sharply decrease. If, with natural circulation, at least an hour can pass between the ignition of the boiler and the noticeable heating of radiators far from it, then with forced injection of coolant, the house will begin to warm up within a matter of minutes.
The temperature of the heating devices will level out. A feature of any gravity system is the unequal heating of radiators closest to the boiler and those farthest from it. The coolant, which circulates rather slowly, manages to cool down before it completes a full circle around the circuit.
If, when laying pipes, they are mounted somewhere with a negative slope, this will not affect the circulation. Installing a pump in the heating system will sharply increase the pressure drop, and the air pockets that are inevitable during a counterslope will no longer be a hindrance.

However: continuous gurgling when there is air in the circuit can be annoying. Functionality is functionality, but it is still better to take care of the possibility of venting air from everywhere.

Are there any downsides to circulation pump systems?

The price of a kilowatt-hour of electricity is growing steadily, and the pump consumes it. Albeit a little - no more than 100 watts at maximum speed.

This device has three operating modes: 55, 70 and 100 watts.

If the heating system is designed only for forced circulation, the very first long power outage will have an extremely unpleasant surprise in store for the home owner. Overheating of the coolant by the boiler can cause destruction of the heating circuit, and stopping circulation can lead to subsequent defrosting.

If doing something with the electricity consumption of an electric pump is, by definition, problematic, then the second problem can be solved. Moreover, the solution is obvious: when designing a system, it is necessary to include in the design the ability to work using natural circulation.

Installing the pump

Position relative to the horizon

How to install a heating pump correctly in terms of its service life? Surely there are factors that can lead to accelerated wear of the mechanics.

The instructions are related to the operating features of the mechanical part of the device. The design of a heating pump, used to create individual heating systems of moderate power, involves continuous cooling of the rotor and shaft with bearings by circulating coolant.

To prevent air locks from leaving the bearings without lubrication and cooling, the motor shaft must be positioned strictly horizontally.

Correct and incorrect pump positions.

Water filtration

It is highly advisable to install a sump tank in front of the pump. Its function is to filter out the inevitable sand, scale and other abrasive particles that destroy the impeller and bearings of the circulation pump.

Since the diameter of the pump insert is usually small, an ordinary coarse filter is quite suitable. The barrel intended for collecting suspended matter should be directed downwards - this way it will not interfere with the circulation of water, even when it is already partially filled.

Attention: on most filters, an arrow indicates the recommended direction of water circulation when installing it. Yes, the filter will perform its function even if installed incorrectly; however, you will have to clean it much more often, and it will be much more difficult to remove ALL the sediment.

Pump location in the circuit

Formally, modern pumps work equally well on both supply and return in any part of the heating circuit. However:

The higher the temperature of the coolant, the lower the service life of the bearings and all plastic parts of the device. From this point of view, it is still necessary to embed it on the return pipeline, directly in front of the boiler.
It is recommended to install the expansion tank in a section of the circuit with the coolant flow as close to laminar as possible. After the pump, the flow will inevitably be turbulent. Hence the second amendment: the circulation pump cuts in before the boiler and after the expansion tank.

The optimal condition for an expansion tank is a water flow with a minimum of turbulence. Before the pump, the flow in the circuit is almost laminar.

Remember our thoughts that it is highly desirable for the heating to work even when the electricity is turned off? Albeit with less efficiency?

How to install a heating pump with your own hands so that it does not interfere with natural circulation?

Let's think out loud for a bit. The gravity system is characterized, first of all, by a minimal difference between supply and return. Therefore, for an acceptable circulation rate, a minimum hydraulic resistance of the circuit is required.

What increases it?

Rotations and bends of the contour.
ANY shut-off valves.

By the way: it is from this point of view that only modern ball valves should be used in any autonomous heating system. Unlike their screw counterparts, they offer minimal resistance to water flow when open. To understand why this is so, take a look at an open valve of this type.

When the valve is open, the lumen in it does not differ from the lumen of the pipe. In addition, there are no bends and turns where the difference is lost.

Reducing the pipe diameter.

The pump runs parallel to the main circuit without breaking it. For the gravity system to operate, the diameter of the circuit must be no less than DN32; The diameter of the pump insert is much smaller.
A valve is installed between the taps, completely shutting off the main circuit when the pump is running. Otherwise, it will work, driving water in a circle between cuts.
Valves are installed before and after the pump, allowing you to cut off the faulty device and dismantle it in the event of a malfunction without resetting the entire heating.

This insertion scheme has a weak point - the need to manually switch from the pump to the bypass when the lights are turned off. Yes, if you are at home, it is difficult not to notice a power outage; but what if everyone in your household is away?

The solution is a check valve. In normal mode it closes; as soon as the pressure in the main circuit before the pump becomes greater than after it, the valve is open. As always, there are subtleties.

All spring check valves give a noticeable loss of pressure: the water needs to overcome the resistance of the spring. Which, of course, goes against our goals. The outlet is a ball valve mounted horizontally. Its resistance to water flow will be minimal, as will the pressure required to open the valve.

The circuit in the photo will switch from forced to natural circulation without your participation.

Installing a pump in a heating system, how to properly install pumping equipment with your own hands: instructions, photo and video tutorials, price

Installing a circulation pump is a technology that is understandable to everyone

Installing a circulation pump in homes with an individual heating system ensures uniform and high-quality heat distribution throughout all rooms of the house.

Circulation pumping units - design and principle of operation

Closed heating systems require forced circulation of hot water. This function is performed by circulation pumps, which consist of a metal motor or rotor attached to a housing, most often made of stainless steel. The release of the coolant is ensured by the impeller. It is located on the rotor shaft. This entire system is driven by an electric motor.

Also in the design of the described installations there are the following elements:

shut-off and check valves;
flow part (usually made of bronze alloy);
thermostat (it protects the pump from overheating and ensures economical operation of the device);
work timer;
connector (male).

When installed in a heating system, the pump draws in water and then delivers it into the pipeline due to centrifugal force. This force is generated when the impeller produces rotational movements. The circulation pump will work effectively only if the pressure it creates can easily cope with the resistance (hydraulic) of various components of the heating system (radiator, pipeline itself).

Types of pumps and their features

Various circulation units can be installed in the heating system of a private house. They are divided into two large groups. The circulation pump can be “dry” or “wet”. When installing devices of the first type with your own hands, you should take into account that their motor is separated from the working part by sealing rings. They are made from stainless steel. During the startup of the installation, the process of movement of these rings begins, which leads to sealing of the connection with a water (very thin) film. The latter is located between the seals.

Circulation pump unit

High-quality sealing in this case is ensured due to the fact that the pressure in the external atmosphere and in the heating system itself is characterized by different indicators. A “dry” pump makes quite loud sounds when operating. In this regard, its installation is always carried out in a specially soundproofed separate room of a private house. The efficiency of such a circulation unit is at the level of 80%.

There are three types of “dry” devices for connecting to the heating system: horizontal, vertical, block. The electric motor in units of the first type is placed horizontally. The discharge pipe is attached to them on the body of the device, and the suction pipe is attached to the shaft (on its front side). In vertical installations, the pipes are on the same axis. And the engine in this case is located vertically. In block circulation units, heated water exits radially and enters the system in the axial direction.

Caring for a “dry” unit is objectively difficult. Its elements must be regularly lubricated with a special compound. If this is not done, the mechanical seals will quickly fail, causing the pump to stop. In addition, in a private home, “dry” devices should be placed in rooms where there is no dust. Its turbulence during equipment operation often causes depressurization of the pump.

In “wet” units, the lubricant function is performed by the coolant itself. The impeller and rotor of such installations are immersed in water. “Wet” devices are much less noisy and easier to install with your own hands. And their maintenance is simpler compared to “dry” pumps.

The body of a “wet” installation is usually made of brass or bronze. Between the stator and the rotor there is always a special stainless steel separator. It's called a glass. It is necessary to provide the required tightness to the engine (more precisely, its elements under electrical voltage). It is “wet” units that are most often installed in a heating system in a private home.

They do a good job of heating relatively small areas. Such devices are not suitable for large objects, since their productivity usually does not exceed 50%. The low efficiency of “wet” installations is due to the impossibility of high-quality sealing of the cup placed between the stator and rotor.

About the choice of equipment and the rules for its independent calculation

The key indicator that determines the efficiency of a circulation pump is its power. For a household heating system, there is no need to try to purchase the highest-power installation. It will only make a loud noise and waste electricity.

Mounted circulation pump

hot water pressure indicator;
pipe section;
productivity and throughput of the heating boiler;
coolant temperature.

Hot water consumption is determined simply. It is equal to the power indicator of the heating unit. If, for example, you have a 20 kW gas boiler, no more than 20 liters of water will be consumed per hour. The pressure of the circulation unit for the heating system for every 10 m of pipes is about 50 cm. The longer the pipeline, the more powerful the pump you need to purchase. Here you should immediately pay attention to the thickness of the pipe products. The resistance to water movement in the system will be stronger if you install pipes with a small cross-section.

In pipelines with a diameter of half an inch, the coolant flow rate is 5.7 liters per minute at the generally accepted (1.5 m/s) speed of water movement, with a diameter of 1 inch - 30 liters. But for pipes with a cross-section of 2 inches, the flow rate will already be at the level of 170 liters. Always select the diameter of the pipes in such a way that you do not have to overpay extra money for energy resources.

The flow rate of the pump itself is determined by the following ratio: N/t2-t1. In this formula, t1 refers to the temperature of the water in the return pipes (usually it is 65–70 °C), and t2 is the temperature provided by the heating unit (at least 90 °C). And the letter N denotes the boiler power (this value is in the equipment passport). The pump pressure is set according to the standards accepted in our country and Europe. It is believed that 1 kW of power of a circulation unit is quite enough for high-quality heating of 1 square meter of a private home.

Do-it-yourself pumping equipment installation diagrams and standards

Circulation pumps are installed in two ways. The first connection diagram for the unit is two-pipe. This connection method is described by a high temperature difference in the system and variable coolant flow. The second scheme is one-pipe. In this case, the temperature difference in the heating system will be insignificant, and the media consumption will be constant.

Installed circulation pump

Connect the pump yourself according to the instructions that come with the unit. It also indicates the installation procedure for the functional reinforcement chain. Before installing the pump, be sure to drain all water from the system. Often there is a need to clean it. During the operation of the heating boiler, a lot of debris accumulates on the internal surfaces of the pipes, which worsens the technical performance of the system.

Experts advise placing the circulation unit in front of the boiler - on the return line. This is done in order to eliminate the risk of boiling of an open type heating system due to the vacuum that is created when installing the supply pump. In addition, if you install a circulation unit on the return line, its trouble-free operation will be significantly increased due to the fact that it will operate at lower temperatures.

The pump installation procedure itself looks like this:

Make a bypass (in professional slang - bypass) in the area where the pump will be located. The bypass diameter is always taken to be slightly smaller compared to the cross-section of the main pipe.
Mount (strictly horizontally) the shaft of the pumping device, and place the terminal box on top.
Place valves (ball valves) on both sides of the pump.
Install the filter. It is not recommended to operate the equipment without this device.
Place an automatic (or manual) release valve above the bypass line. This device will allow you to clean air pockets that regularly form in the system.

Next, valves (shut-off) are installed at the inlet-outlet section of the circulation unit. For an open heating system, an expansion tank is additionally required (not installed in closed complexes). The final stage of installation work is the treatment of all connection points of various elements of the system with a good sealant.

Installing a circulation pump - all the tricks of the procedure Video

Features of installing a circulation pump, which increases the efficiency of heating systems in private houses, do-it-yourself diagram and video of its connection.

How to install a circulation pump

Circulation pumps are installed in heating systems with forced or natural circulation. It is needed to increase heat transfer and to be able to regulate the temperature in the room. Installing a circulation pump is not the most difficult task; if you have a minimum of skills, you can do it yourself, with your own hands.

What is a circulation pump and why is it needed?

A circulation pump is a device that changes the speed of movement of a liquid medium without changing pressure. In heating systems it is installed for more efficient heating. In systems with forced circulation it is a mandatory element, in gravity systems it can be installed if it is necessary to increase the thermal power. Installing a circulation pump with several speeds makes it possible to change the amount of heat transferred depending on the outside temperature, thus maintaining a stable temperature in the room.

Cross-section of a circulation pump with a wet rotor

There are two types of such units - with a dry and wet rotor. Devices with a dry rotor have a high efficiency (about 80%), but are very noisy and require regular maintenance. Units with a wet rotor operate almost silently; with normal coolant quality, they can pump water without failure for more than 10 years. They have a lower efficiency (about 50%), but their characteristics are more than sufficient for heating any private home.

Where to put

It is recommended to install a circulation pump after the boiler, before the first branch, but on the supply or return pipeline it doesn’t matter. Modern units are made from materials that can withstand temperatures up to 100-115°C. There are few heating systems that work with a hotter coolant, so considerations of a more “comfortable” temperature are untenable, but if you feel safer, put it in the return line.

Can be installed in the return or direct pipeline after/before the boiler up to the first branch

There is no difference in hydraulics - the boiler, and the rest of the system; it makes absolutely no difference whether there is a pump in the supply or return branch. What matters is the correct installation, in the sense of strapping, and the correct orientation of the rotor in space. Nothing else matters.

There is one important point regarding the installation location. If the heating system has two separate branches - on the right and left wings of the house or on the first and second floor - it makes sense to install a separate unit on each, and not one common one - directly after the boiler. Moreover, the same rule remains on these branches: immediately after the boiler, before the first branch in this heating circuit. This will make it possible to set the required thermal conditions in each part of the house independently of the other, and also in two-story houses to save on heating. How? Due to the fact that the second floor is usually much warmer than the first floor and much less heat is required there. If there are two pumps in the branch that goes up, the speed of movement of the coolant is set much lower, and this allows you to burn less fuel, without compromising the comfort of living.

There are two types of heating systems - forced and natural circulation. Systems with forced circulation cannot work without a pump; systems with natural circulation work, but in this mode they have lower heat transfer. However, less heat is still much better than no heat at all, so in areas where electricity is often cut off, the system is designed as hydraulic (with natural circulation), and then a pump is installed into it. This gives high heating efficiency and reliability. It is clear that the installation of a circulation pump in these systems is different.

All heating systems with heated floors are forced - without a pump, the coolant will not pass through such large circuits

Forced circulation

Since a forced circulation heating system without a pump is inoperative, it is installed directly into the gap in the supply or return pipe (of your choice).

Most problems with the circulation pump arise due to the presence of mechanical impurities (sand, other abrasive particles) in the coolant. They can jam the impeller and stop the motor. Therefore, a mesh dirt filter must be placed in front of the unit.

Installing a circulation pump in a forced circulation system

It is also advisable to install ball valves on both sides. They will make it possible to replace or repair the device without draining the coolant from the system. Turn off the taps and remove the unit. Only that part of the water that was directly in this piece of the system is drained.

Natural circulation

The piping of the circulation pump in gravity systems has one significant difference - a bypass is required. This is a jumper that makes the system operational when the pump is not working. One ball shut-off valve is installed on the bypass, which is closed the entire time the pumping is running. In this mode, the system operates as forced.

Installation diagram of a circulation pump in a system with natural circulation

When the electricity goes out or the unit fails, the valve on the jumper is opened, the valve leading to the pump is closed, and the system operates as a gravity system.

Installation features

There is one important point, without which the installation of the circulation pump will require rework: it is necessary to rotate the rotor so that it is directed horizontally. The second point is the direction of flow. There is an arrow on the body indicating which direction the coolant should flow. This is how you turn the unit so that the direction of movement of the coolant is “in the direction of the arrow”.

The pump itself can be installed both horizontally and vertically, just when selecting a model, make sure that it can work in both positions. And one more thing: with a vertical arrangement, the power (pressure created) drops by about 30%. This must be taken into account when choosing a model.

Power connection

The circulation pumps operate from a 220 V network. The connection is standard; a separate power supply line with a circuit breaker is desirable. The connection requires three wires - phase, neutral and ground.

Circulation pump electrical connection diagram

The connection to the network itself can be organized using a three-pin socket and plug. This connection method is used if the pump comes with a connected power wire. It can also be connected via a terminal block or directly with a cable to the terminals.

The terminals are located under a plastic cover. We remove it by unscrewing several bolts and find three connectors. They are usually labeled (the pictograms are N - neutral wire, L - phase, and “ground” has an international designation), so it’s hard to make a mistake.

Where to connect the power cable

Since the entire system depends on the performance of the circulation pump, it makes sense to make a backup power supply - install a stabilizer with connected batteries. With such a power supply system, everything will work for several days, since the pump itself and the boiler automation “pulls” electricity to a maximum of 250-300 W. But when organizing, you need to calculate everything and select the battery capacity. The disadvantage of such a system is the need to ensure that the batteries do not discharge.

How to connect a circulator to electricity through a stabilizer

Installation of a circulation pump: diagrams, installation rules

How the circulation pump should be installed, its piping for different types of systems, how to connect it to electricity.

Installing a pump in a heating system: analysis of basic installation rules and tricks

To distribute heat evenly in a house equipped with an autonomous heating system, various models of circulation pumps are used. This equipment provides forced circulation of coolant through pipes and radiators. In this case, the radiators are heated simultaneously in all rooms, regardless of their distance from the heating boiler. The heating pump is installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions, which describe in detail the installation process of this equipment. In practice, several methods of arranging pumping units in the heating system of a private house have been tested. In each case, the owner of the facility selects the most suitable option, taking into account the type of boiler and expansion tank used, the type of heating system, and the presence of additional elements.

Selecting the right unit

When choosing a pump, pay attention to two main parameters: the strength of the coolant flow and the hydraulic resistance that it overcomes when creating pressure. In this case, the characteristics of the purchased circulation pump should be 10-15% lower than the calculated values. If you install a powerful pump in the heating system, you may encounter the problem of increasing power consumption, excessive noise, and rapid wear of equipment parts. A low-power pump will not be able to pump coolant in the required volume. Many models of modern circulation pumps are equipped with electronic or manual regulators of the speed of rotation of the electric motor shaft. The highest efficiency value is achieved at maximum shaft speed.

Thermal valves installed in many heating systems regulate the room temperature in accordance with the specified parameters. The valve closes when the temperature rises. This increases hydraulic resistance and, accordingly, increases pressure. These processes are accompanied by the appearance of noise, which can be eliminated by switching the pump to low speed. Pumps with built-in electronics that can smoothly regulate pressure drops depending on changes in the amount of water cope with this task more effectively.

Determining where the pump is inserted into the system

Correct operation of pumping equipment is possible provided that the location of its insertion into the pipeline is correctly determined. The pump must force the coolant to circulate through the heating system, thereby ensuring rapid movement of hot water from the boiler to all radiators installed in the house. This is what a typical connection diagram for a heating circulation pump looks like, most often used by specialists in practice.

Typical diagram for connecting a pump providing forced circulation of coolant to an autonomous heating system of a private house or country cottage

Its main elements are the boiler (1), membrane tank (7), pump (5), heating radiators (8), as well as:

coupling connection (2);
valves (3);
alarm system (4);
strainer (6);
heating system water supply line (9);
management (10);
temperature sensor (11);
emergency sensor (12);
grounding (13).

In autonomous heating systems, sealed pumps with a throttleless “wet” rotor are usually installed. These models do not require additional lubrication of parts or replacement of gaskets. These functions are performed by the coolant. The water pumped by the pump also cools its elements and also ensures silent operation of the equipment. The throttleless pump body is made by manufacturers from cast iron, and the rotor is made from steel or wear-resistant plastic. The device, which does not require intensive maintenance, can operate for 20 years or more.

Basic installation rules

Any equipment is supplied accompanied by the manufacturer’s instructions, which reflect all the important information about its design, operating principle and installation rules. After reading this technical document carefully, you can understand the basic rules for handling it.

When installing it yourself, it is very important to choose the desired position of the product relative to the horizon. The location of the electric motor shaft must be strictly horizontal. Otherwise, air pockets may form, which will leave the bearings without lubrication and sufficient cooling. This will lead to rapid wear of parts and rapid equipment breakdown. There is an arrow on the pump body in the direction in which the coolant in the system should move.

Options for correct and incorrect placement of a circulation pump with a “wet” rotor. It is strictly prohibited to place equipment as shown in the bottom row.

The need for water filtration

A sump tank is installed in front of the pump, the function of which is to filter the coolant. The mud filter traps abrasive particles, sand, scale and other contaminants that get into the water. If such elements get inside the pump, the impeller and bearings may be destroyed. Since the diameter of the insert for mounting the pump is small, you can use an ordinary coarse filter. Please note that the barrel, which serves to collect various suspensions, is directed downward. Being in this position, the filter will not serve as an obstacle to water circulation. When partially filled, the barrel will not lose its ability to pass coolant.

Important! Most filters are equipped with an arrow indicating the correct direction of water flow in the circuit. If you ignore the direction of the arrow, you will have to clean the mud pan much more often.

Pump location in the heating circuit

In principle, most models of modern pumps can work equally well on both supply and return. The equipment can be installed in any part of the heating circuit. It should be taken into account that the duration of operation of the bearings and plastic parts of the device will depend on the temperature of the coolant. Therefore, it is better to install the equipment on the return pipeline after the expansion membrane tank and before the heating boiler.

One of the options for correctly inserting a circulation pump into the pipeline of the heating system of a private house with a circuit length of no more than 80 meters

Why is bypass needed?

The circulation pump is a volatile device. When there is a power outage, the heating system must operate under natural circulation conditions. To do this, it is necessary to minimize resistance in the circuit by reducing the number of bends and turns, as well as using modern ball valves as shut-off valves. When open, the clearance in the ball valve coincides with the diameter of the pipe.

The circulation pump is installed on a bypass, which is cut off from the main system using two ball valves. This placement of the equipment allows it to be repaired or replaced without damaging the heating system of the house. In the off-season, the heating system can operate without a pump, which is shut off using the same ball valves. When frost intensifies, the pump is put into operation by opening the shut-off valves along its edges and closing the ball valve on the main circuit. This is how the direction of coolant flow is adjusted.

Installation of the circulation pump on the bypass (bypass pipe) using three ball valves ensures the coolant flow in the desired direction

Electrical connection

If the heating system is designed on the principle of forced circulation, then in the event of a power outage the pump must continue to operate from a backup power source. Therefore, it is recommended to install an uninterruptible power supply that will allow the heating system to function for a couple of hours. This time is usually enough for specialists to eliminate the cause of an emergency power outage. External batteries connected to a backup power source can extend the battery life of the equipment.

Connecting the pump to an uninterruptible power supply (UPS), which is additionally reinforced by three battery units connected in series into a single circuit

When making electrical connections to the equipment, it is necessary to eliminate the possibility of moisture and condensation getting into the terminal box. A heat-resistant cable is used if the coolant heats up in the heating system by more than 90° C. Contact of the power cable with the walls of pipes, the engine, or the pump housing is not allowed. The power cable is connected to the terminal box from the left or right side, and the plug is rearranged. When the terminal box is located on the side, the cable is inserted only from the bottom. And yes, grounding is required!

Checking operation and putting it into operation

After installation work is completed, the heating system is filled with water. The air is then removed by opening the central screw located on the pump housing cover. The appearance of water will indicate the complete removal of air bubbles from the device. After this, the pump can be put into operation.

After reading the instructions and reading this article, you can carry out the installation work yourself. If you do not understand how to install a heating pump, then invite a professional technician.

Installing a heating pump: how to install a pump in a heating system

Tips for installing a circulation pump for heating. How to properly install a heating pump: analysis of all the nuances, technical problems and much more. Video and photo.