How to make the simplest fireplace. How to build a fireplace yourself. Prices for ceramic bricks

DIY fireplace installation: 4 types of designs

A properly built fireplace will not only be a source of heat, but also a wonderful addition to the interior. Fire has long been considered a reliable companion and an indispensable element of comfort and warmth in the home. Currently, fireplaces are becoming more and more popular and in demand home design objects. Fulfilling their function, fireplaces are not only a source of heat and heating the room, but also a beautiful decorative part of the interior. Taking into account the construction of your own home, questions often arise about the construction of a fireplace. For the purpose of financial savings and the optional need for expensive specialists, you can build a fireplace yourself, having a step-by-step plan and the necessary information in designing a fireplace stove.

Principle and purpose: how to assemble a fireplace with your own hands

The simplest, most common stove with an uncovered firebox is a fireplace. When various heating fuels are burned, heat is released and the room is directly heated. The structure of the fireplace is not complicated - it is a firebox and a curved chimney.

The use of a fireplace as the main source of heating for a home is inappropriate. When fuel burns in a fireplace, the heat released into the room is 20%, and the main warm mass goes with the air flow into the chimney. Heating of the room occurs unevenly, since the main heat is generated by the firebox. The side parts of the fireplace hardly heat up and do not provide sufficient heat to the room.

To increase the good heat transfer of the fireplace, it is recommended to make expanded and non-recessed fireboxes.

1. Before making a fireplace, it is necessary to determine the design and construction of a suitable structure for the room.
2. Initially, make a drawing and calculate the amount of material required.
3. Decide on the exact location in the house.

The most common place to install a fireplace in a house is a load-bearing wall, but you can also build it in a corner or separately from any wall. However, it all depends on the available space and preferences. In wooden structures, fire safety precautions must be taken into account. Before building a fireplace, it is necessary to accurately calculate the chimney cross-section with the size of the firebox and think about the air flow in the room.

How to make calculations and materials for a fireplace: size and dimensions

Calculating the dimensions of the future fireplace plays an important role in its construction, since high-quality functionality and performance depend on this. There are many drawings and diagrams of various types of fireplaces. The drawing and calculation can be done by independently knowing the correct step-by-step combination of actions.

Action steps:

1. First of all, the area of ​​the room in which the fireplace will be built is measured and transferred to the drawing on the appropriate scale.
2. Afterwards, an exact calculation of the firebox is made in relation to the volume of the room 1/50.
3. The fireplace insert is calculated in proportions of 1 to 2 (depth to height). This is very important for good heat transfer and not creating smoke in the room.
4. The opening of the chimney pipe depends on the firebox of the fireplace. The chimney should be approximately 8 times smaller than the firebox.
5. A rectangular chimney is easier to make than a round one, the diameter of which must be at least 10 cm.

During the process of designing a fireplace for a home, it is necessary to make calculations based on the size of the entire room

A correctly drawn up drawing will make it possible to calculate the required amount of required material. According to the finished project, each row of masonry is taken into account, and all constituent units of the structure are taken as a whole brick.

Necessary materials:

1. Brick– used exclusively solid and fire-resistant. When purchasing this material, you must ensure its integrity and the absence of any cracks or chips.
2. Sand– used in the middle fraction with a grain diameter of 1.5 mm. The material must be rinsed well before use.
3. Clay– recommended for use in brown or red colors exclusively, without any impurities or unnecessary additives.
4. Portland cement– necessary for making the base of the fireplace.

In the process of building a fireplace, you will definitely need such elements as a smoke damper and reinforcement rods. There should be at least 20 reinforcing bars with a diameter of 1 cm and a length of 70 cm.

Do-it-yourself fireplace in the house: different types and classifications

Modern fireplace manufacturing has a wide range of designs and combustion chambers. Taking these features into account, you can make the best choice for a particular device and location.

Due to its original design, the island fireplace will fit perfectly into any room interior

Variety of species and classification:

1. Wall fireplace– a fireplace, the structure of which is located directly against the wall. This design has a large volume and occupies a significant area in the room. The use of this type is mainly used in houses with large spaces. It is customary to install it in a large living room or hall. Natural or artificial stone, brick and tile are used as decoration.
2. Built-in fireplace– It is compact and is installed in wall masonry. This design has a partial location of the chimney and firebox indoors. The fireplace portal is framed with bricks made from halves and many other decorative materials.
3. Corner fireplace- located in the far corner of the room. Creates a certain comfort of the room and beauty of the interior. It differs from other types in the masonry and design of the smoke collector, which is made of light blocks or concrete. Natural stone and brick are also used in finishing work.
4. Island fireplace– located in almost any part of the room and is well suited for large rooms. This fireplace is open from all angles, occupying a fairly large area in the house. The design of such a fireplace has a suspended chimney, and the combustion chamber can be closed or open.

Fireplaces have different types not only in their design and location, but also differ in the types of fuel combustion.

Types of fuel combustion: how to assemble a fireplace with your own hands

Different house plans have their own type and characteristic interior design. Fireplaces can be used not only in houses, but also in apartments. It all depends on the method of fuel combustion and the purpose of the design.

An electronic fireplace does not have a chimney and certain difficulties during the installation process

Types by type of fuel combustion:

1. Wood-burning fireplace– used using live combustion of fuel. The installation of such a fireplace must be designed directly taking into account the layout of the house, and all chimney devices are calculated to the smallest detail, since otherwise the fireplace will create smoke in the room and great discomfort. Wood-burning fireplaces have relatively low heat output.
2. Gas fireplace– is easy to use and install. It has the greatest heat transfer than wood-burning. This fireplace design features a decorative use of firewood, reminiscent of real combustion. One of the important elements of such a fireplace is the absence of a chimney. All questions regarding the connection and installation of such fireplaces are carried out by gas services.
3. Electronic fireplace– a good option for use in an apartment. Does not require a special type of fuel and runs directly on electricity. It has a chic variety of models and fits perfectly into any interior.
4. Biofireplace– is an innovation in the field of heating systems. The fuel used is bioethanol or ethyl alcohol, which is harmless to humans and environmentally friendly to use. Ecological fireplaces have excellent heat transfer and are able to heat a room of 60 m2.

Many fireplaces of various types are used for lighting, heating and cooking. Others have decorative value and serve as decoration for the interior of the room.

Simple brick fireplace and its key elements

A simple fireplace can be made from solid regular or facing bricks, but the internal fuel compartment must be made from fireclay. This brick is resistant to combustion and retains heat longer.

In a brick fireplace, the mirror serves to reflect the heat that enters the room

The main components of a brick fireplace:

• A base or supporting foundation is necessary for the construction of the entire structure;
• The ash pit or ashpit is located under the grate;
• The firebox or firebox is directly designed for burning fuel;
• The smoke tooth prevents soot from entering the firebox and prevents cold flows;
• Hilo provides traction and prevents smoke and sparks from entering the room;
• The valve serves as a regulator of hot and cold air flows;

Simple brick fireplaces can be indoors or built outdoors. There are many options and projects for such a street design. When making an outdoor fireplace, an element such as a barbecue may be present.

Brick arrangement: build a fireplace with your own hands

Before laying a fireplace, it is necessary to install a foundation, having previously prepared an appropriate pit for it with a filling of crushed stone. Then the formwork is installed, and its internal walls are treated with bitumen mortar. Then the entire finished space is laid with stone and filled with crushed stone cement mass and time is given until it hardens completely.

An important feature of the foundation is that the base should be located 6 cm below the level of the main floor.

If you have no experience in bricklaying, it is recommended to initially lay the structure without using mortar

It is necessary to lay a waterproofing material on top of the prepared foundation and begin laying the first row of bricks using clay mortar. When making a fireplace yourself, it is necessary to have an accurate design diagram and check each stage of the construction process, since even the slightest inaccuracy can lead to serious consequences for the quality functionality of the folded fireplace and it will have to be rebuilt.

DIY fireplace (video)

With strict observance of all the conditions of the drawing elements, having the necessary materials and tools, a fireplace built by yourself is guaranteed to last a long time and have good performance.

The aroma of wood and a blissful feeling of warmth throughout the body - these are the associations that most people have when they see a fireplace. It is believed that an open fire can burn to the ground all the negative energy accumulated during the day. Perhaps this is why most owners of private houses and cottages dream of building it.

However, a fireplace is a rather complex device, and if there is the slightest mistake in its design, when lighting, instead of blissful warmth, only acrid smoke will enter the room. When building a fireplace with your own hands, special care and careful adherence to installation rules are required.

So, how to build a fireplace with your own hands? We tried to describe the entire construction process step by step.

How the fireplace works

As you know, any material can burn only in the presence of an oxidizing agent - oxygen. To ensure its constant circulation and exit from the fireplace, special holes are made in it - smoke ducts. Under the influence of heat, the air in the firebox, heating up, rises, making room for the next batch of air masses, thereby creating cravings. Along with the air, combustion products in the form of soot also rush upward.

If the smoke comes out too quickly, in a straight line, it takes with it almost all the heat generated during combustion. That is why stoves and fireplaces are equipped with chimney bends. However, their size and quantity must be calculated as accurately as possible.

If it is difficult for smoke to move along them, it will appear reverse thrust: smoke will flow into the room. There is a rule: the larger the size of the firebox, the wider the hole for the chimney should be. It can range from 18 to 25 cm.

Fireplace flue diagram

In the stove business, masonry schemes have long been thought out and verified: orders. Therefore, to create a fireplace with your own hands, it is better to use them, choosing the most suitable one. Only an experienced stove maker can make any changes to them. Therefore, if you do not want the fireplace you built with your own hands to smoke mercilessly, you should not change the selected design yourself.

Fireplace design

Unlike a stove, a fireplace has fewer smoke ducts, but it warms up much faster. However open fire is able to quickly warm up a room only next to the fireplace and only when combustion is maintained in the hearth. Therefore, this device is always installed as additional heating in places where it was necessary.

The main parts of the fireplace are:
In the stove business, masonry schemes and orders have long been thought out and verified. Therefore, to create a fireplace with your own hands, it is better to use them, choosing the most suitable one. Only an experienced stove maker can make any changes to them. Therefore, if you do not want the fireplace you built with your own hands to smoke mercilessly, you should not change the selected design yourself.
Fireplace design

Unlike a stove, a fireplace has fewer smoke ducts, but it warms up much faster. However, an open fire can quickly warm up a room only next to the fireplace and only when combustion is maintained in the hearth. Therefore, this device is always installed as additional heating in places where it was necessary.

The stove has a larger number of smoke ducts and thick walls, so it retains heat much longer. Such a device is capable of heating the adjacent room due to the heat coming from its walls. However, in other respects the operating principles of the fireplace and stove are similar.

The main parts of the fireplace are:
chimney: a system of passages that runs along the entire contour of the fireplace and is discharged into a chimney;

Firebox (firebox): the chamber in which the fuel burns can be either open or protected by a door made of fireproof glass;

Grate: a thick cast iron grate located at the bottom of the firebox on which the fire is built; through its holes, decayed firewood or coal falls through and ends up in the ash pan; since the fire in the stone is open and clearly visible, the grate can have a bizarre shape and be decorated with ornaments;

Fireplace grate

Ash pan: a device for collecting ash;

Hailo: a narrowed arch above the firebox, a smoke collector located between the firebox and the chimney;

Lining: fireproof finish on the inside of the fireplace;

Fireplace tooth: a protrusion for narrowing the smoke collector and changing the direction of smoke exit; prevents the emission of smoke indoors during gusts of wind; Not available in all fireplaces;

Mirror: The slope of the wall above the back wall of the firebox, designed to reflect smoke and move it along the chimney;

Heat exchanger: not built into all fireplaces, it looks like a closed system of pipes through which water passes; the heated liquid transfers heat further to the heating radiators;

Heat exchanger for fireplace

Doors and dampers;

Damper: a plate built into the chimney to manually regulate the smoke output;

Portal: decorative frame of the firebox; can be made of cast iron, stone and even wood;

Pre-furnace sheet: metal sheet to protect the floor.

Diagram and order of a corner fireplace

Types of fireplaces

There are three types of fireplaces:
closed: built into the wall, allowing you to significantly save usable space;

Semi-open: adjacent to the wall;

Island: free-standing structures that can be located in any part of the room.

By way of heat transfer they are divided into:
designs with one-way radiation: quite simple, heat comes from three slanted walls firebox in one direction;

Fireplaces with two- and three-sided radiation are less common; have a larger firebox with two or three open walls, however, although they give off heat in several directions, they only have one reflective surface, therefore there is less heat from them; are used mainly due to their high decorative properties.

Fireplace inserts open on two and three sides

Depending on the type of fuel fireplaces are:
working on solid fuel (wood, less often coal);

Gas;

Electro.

Fireplace foundation

Brick weighs a lot, so the fireplace must be built on a solid and massive base that does not have distortions. Otherwise, subsidence and deformation of the entire structure is possible.

Foundation for a corner fireplace

Since cutting the load-bearing lower beams and floor beams is strongly discouraged, the foundation for the fireplace and the opening for the chimney should be provided at the design stage of the house.

Important! The load on the foundations of the house and the fireplace will be different, so they will have different degrees of shrinkage, so it is not recommended to tie them together: the minimum distance between them is 5 cm.

1. The foundation for the fireplace should protrude beyond the structure by 10-15 cm. Its depth depends on the type of soil and the degree of freezing and should be at least 0.5 m.

2. Before pouring the solution, a layer of sand is poured onto the bottom of the pit, spilled with water and compacted. Next, crushed stone is laid in a layer of up to 30 cm.

3. The formwork is placed at the bottom of the pit and waterproofed with film or roofing felt to prevent cement laitance from seeping into the ground.

4. To strengthen the base, reinforcement is pre-laid before pouring. After the solution has completely dried and the formwork has been removed, the resulting gap is filled with crushed stone and compacted.

Order selection

If this is your first project, it is better to choose a design with lightweight (simplified) masonry or invite a specialist to supervise your work.

When choosing an order, you should take into account room size: The oxygen supply must be sufficient. The fireplace should be installed taking into account the movement of air flows around the room, however, it is not recommended to build it next to opening windows and doors. The photo shows the consumption of materials for masonry of the simplest design and options for arranging wall and corner fireplaces.

Calculation of the amount of materials for laying a small fireplace

Arrangement of wall and corner fireplaces with simplified masonry

Masonry mortar

Cement is not used to build a fireplace, as it can crack under the influence of high temperatures, so the masonry is carried out using clay-sand mortar. Skinny and low-plasticity clay becomes too brittle after drying, so it should not be used. To prepare the solution, select fatty and soft clay with sifted clean sand in a 1:2 ratio. For masonry, you can also buy a ready-made mixture.

Mixtures for masonry

Fireplace stove laying

1. At least two layers of waterproofing are laid on the finished foundation: roofing felt or roofing felt impregnated with tar or bitumen.

2. To lay out the hearth (the lower part of the firebox), the fire chamber and the chimney, you need fire brick. To prevent sparks accidentally falling from the open fireplace from falling onto the floor, the area in front of the firebox is also made of the same brick. To improve adhesion, the bricks are soaked in water before starting work.

3. The solution is applied to both the bed (the wide part, the base of the brick) and its side part (the butt), which will be adjacent to the adjacent bricks. It should be noted that the order indicates how the brick is laid: on the edge or on the wide part of the brick (bed).

4. To avoid mistakes, it is better to number each row of masonry with chalk.

5. Recommended seam thickness sand-clay solution 3-5 mm. The thickness of the solution prepared from the ready-made mixture is indicated by the manufacturer. The brick laid in the masonry should be moved a little and, lightly tapping it with a trowel, pressed.

6. Laying is carried out with offset so that the joint of the bottom row is blocked.

7. Layout begins from the corners of the structure. The brick that will be in the middle part of the row is cut to the required size. It is better to cut bricks with a grinder with a diamond blade.

Important! After laying the row, it is necessary to check its horizontal and vertical using a level. Angles are checked using a plumb line or angle. To obtain perfectly even corners, you can stretch cords along them.

8. The first row is always laid out as a continuous sheet. In most cases, an ash pan is installed in the second row, so free space is left for its installation.

9. After installing the grate and hearth in the fourth row, the formation begins portal. To do this, the bricks are moved forward a few centimeters.

The order of laying bricks

10. The main difficulty of masonry consists in the construction of inclined walls and lintels of chimneys. This tilt is achieved by cutting the brick at a given angle. To prevent soot from accumulating in their corners, the walls of the shaft must be perfectly even and smooth. When laying inclined parts of a chimney and cutting bricks at a certain angle, it is better to prepare wooden templates with the same angle.

Important! Placing cracked bricks and halves into the chimney is not allowed: if they fall out, it will be blocked and smoke will begin to flow into the room.

11. Additional air flow is provided by air wells - holes in the side parts of the fireplace. Heated air enters the room through additional openings - stranglers.

12. Sometimes they build into the back wall of the firebox metal screen to reflect heat. It is hung on pins, which are laid in the masonry. You can also purchase a ready-made firebox made of cast iron and build it into the brickwork.

Fireplace with cast iron firebox

Example of firebox layout

13. The smoke collector chamber, located above the firebox, gradually narrows and turns into a chimney. At the point where the pipe comes into contact with the ceiling, a thickening is made, called “ fluff" To protect against rain and snow when passing through the roof, another thickening is provided, called “ otter" A protective barrier is erected over it apron of steel.

Important! The ceiling next to the chimney is sheathed with foil or sheets of iron. The pipe near the ceiling is additionally wrapped in fireproof material.

We tried to answer the question: “how to build a fireplace with your own hands?”, and if you still have questions, watch the video on this topic.

Who doesn't dream of their own fireplace? After all, with its help you can make almost any room stylish and comfortable. And despite the complexity of the design, as well as the high price of materials, it can be assembled with your own efforts. It is in this article that you will find many answers to questions about how to make a fireplace, as well as step-by-step instructions for its construction.

Materials estimation and overall cost calculation

As I already said right away, a fireplace is quite an expensive pleasure, despite the fact that you will assemble it with your own hands. This factor is influenced not only by the materials, but also by its location and the type of house.

1. Ceiling footage and number of floors of the house. This point plays a very important role, whether you have an apartment or a house. The higher the ceiling, the more money you will spend. And if you are the owner of a two-story house, then get ready for additional expenses on wiring a long chimney.
2. Type of fireplace and its finish. At this point it all depends on the room and desires. Small corner fireplaces are suitable for small rooms, while large ones open up wide possibilities for design. It can also be either built into the wall or outdoor fireplaces with a wide variety of finishes.

1. Features of the foundation. The foundation for a fireplace directly depends on the type of fireplace chosen.
2. Flooring. Naturally, we will need something that is heat-resistant and of the highest quality.

1. Insulation and materials for facade walls. One of the key points, since heat transfer, as well as smoke entering the room, depends on insulation.
2. Weather conditions and climate. The fireplace serves not only for decorative purposes, but also for heating, so climate zones must also be taken into account.

These six points will play a key role in pricing your fireplace.

You can save money on some of them, but I recommend that you choose the highest quality materials, since making a fireplace with your own hands is a very difficult task, especially if you do not have any experience in this field.

Beginners who have not encountered such work may make a number of such mistakes:

1. Incorrect location for the fireplace.
2. Omission of important elements such as ash pan and internal insulation.
3. Uneven masonry without the use of refractory bricks.
4. Poor foundation, as well as crooked layers.

All of this will become fatal mistakes that will simply lead to the impossibility of using the fireplace, and you will be forced to dismantle it. But high-quality materials will help you avoid certain mistakes and risks.

Components of a fireplace

Before you start assembling the fireplace, I will show you what main parts it consists of.

Of course, many people know that its main components are the firebox and chimney, but there are also many other elements:

1. Ash pit.
2. Collection of smoke.
3. Convection system.
4. Heating device.
5. Gate valve for ash collection.
6. Grate.
7. Lining (Internal protective facing layer).
8. Flame cutter.
9. Doors for protection.

Each of these elements ensures comfortable and safe operation of the fireplace, while the main process falls on the firebox and ensures stable air circulation inside the fireplace system. Don’t forget about the “portal” - it is this part of the fireplace that falls under the decor.

Choosing the best location for the fireplace

Basically, they prefer to install fireplaces near main walls. It is very important to take into account the fact that they cannot be overcooled, so try not to display the structures in drafts, in the corridor, near stairs and in very small rooms. And before designing the fireplace, compare the placement of the pipes with the beams and with the roof rafters.

I remind you once again that the floor covering must be fireproof! Therefore, before building a fireplace, try to consult with specialists who will help you take into account all safety requirements. Also, furniture should not be placed close to the fireplace - the minimum distance from the fireplace to any interior items should be 800 mm.

In general, all fireplaces, according to their location, can be divided into the following categories:

1. Angular. The chimney of this fireplace is diverted into one of the adjacent walls. Before assembling such a fireplace, it is necessary to obtain all the information about the condition of the foundation and adjacent walls.
2. Wall-mounted. The most popular type of fireplace because it is very easy to assemble and is the most versatile.
3. Built-in. It is best to design at the stage of building a house, since the main part of the fireplace is hidden inside the wall.
4. Separate. These fireplaces act as a separate area that protrudes above the floor level.

When calculating any of these fireplaces, you need to consider the total area of ​​the room. Approximately, the area of ​​the fireplace portal should be about 2% of the area of ​​the room. But it is worth considering the fact that even a large fireplace will not be able to cope with open drafts, and a small one will not be able to cope with a large room. Therefore, answering the question “how to make fireplaces with your own hands,” first of all you need to talk about the materials used and, after them, about the step-by-step construction method.

Materials for building a fireplace

You've probably already guessed that the most popular material for building a fireplace is brick. This popularity is due to the simpler method of laying a brick fireplace, as well as the low cost of the brick itself.

To build an average fireplace, you will need the following materials:

1. Clay.
2. Cement.
3. Red brick.
4. Sand.
5. Crushed stone.
6. Rubble stone.

This is not the entire list of components, but they are the most necessary. Also, the materials depend only on your financial capabilities and the type of fireplace. Please note that the brick must be of the best quality, including a uniform structure and straight shape. It is best if you check each brick for damage when purchasing.

It is advisable to avoid purchasing light-colored bricks, since bricks that have not undergone good heat treatment have a lighter shade and a non-uniform structure. Therefore, it is better to take only red ones. Their number is determined by the type and design of the chosen structure.

Step-by-step construction of a fireplace

Finally we begin the process of laying the fireplace. I will tell you and show you using a specific example of building a budget fireplace for a summer house. Such step-by-step instructions may be suitable for other types of fireplaces, but you need to take into account their features.

Stage 1 – Material preparation

To lay a small economy class fireplace, you need about 500 M-150 bricks. You also need to take 50 pieces of refractory bricks, which will serve as reliable protection for other components.

Next, we take about 5 bags of mixture for stove masonry and a glass-magnesium sheet 12 mm thick. Now, as I said above, we buy the main components: a stove band for fittings, a fireplace door, a sandwich chimney (I was guided by a height of about 3 meters), a chimney view and 8 iron corners measuring 50 mm. All this will cost about 100-200 dollars.

Stage 2 - Preparatory work

We are preparing the upcoming work site. Cover everything around with protective film. Also try to lay it on the floor where all the work will take place.

Stage 3 – Preparing the base

At this stage we organize the foundation for the fireplace. Since I designed it in an old house, I was unable to dig a deep foundation. Instead, I reinforced it with iron corners.

Having placed the corners, we begin to place bricks between them. Be sure to leave gaps between the bricks - the cement mixture will get into them.

As soon as the bricks are laid, we begin to fill them with mortar, spreading it evenly with a trowel over the entire foundation.

The corners should be laid out in such a direction that the bricks form a strong base. To prevent them from moving, the corners can be welded together.

Try not to make a liquid solution, since in the future excess water will negatively affect the foundation. Therefore, the ideal quintessence of cement is a sour cream mixture. The unfolded base will act as the frame of the fireplace, so its unevenness can be smoothed out using mortar. After all these operations with the foundation, we leave it to dry for 2 days.

Stage 4 – First rows

Laying a fireplace includes several stages, and the first of them is called the “hearth”. It is the beginning of the future fireplace, so it should be treated with the utmost care. It must be measured in a precise manner so that the base forms a rectangle with even diagonals.

We will place further rows on this basis. In this case, the fireplace will not have long air ducts. It will include such elements as: an exhaust pipe, a chimney casing, a blower and a combustion chamber.

According to the design, this fireplace is hollow, so an air pocket is formed between the outer wall and the combustion chamber. That is why my choice fell on 150-M brand brick, since it will not be in direct contact.

Having laid the starting row of the base, we proceed to the second row, on which the ash pan will be placed. To do this, we begin to place ordinary bricks at the edges, and closer to the middle we place refractory bricks, also known as fireclay bricks, on which we place the grate. Thus we got a blower and an ash pan.

The solution must be poured into each row only after you have verified their accuracy by measuring with a level.

When the next row of brickwork is laid, it is necessary to leave a hole in it for the future door. In the photo you can see an example of how the next row of bricks is not laid out to the end - leaving a gap the size of 2 bricks under the door.

Stage – 5 Preparing the firebox and installing the door

Using twists, we attach 4 pieces of oven tape to the door itself. We lay the lower oven strips in the rows themselves, securing them to the seams with self-tapping screws. It is best to line the sides of the door with basal cardboard to form a sealed contact between the metal and the brick.

Inside the fireplace we make a V-shape of refractory bricks, only we “blunt” its sharp end. There must be a distance between the outer walls of the fireplace and the fireproof inner liner for air circulation. Once you have everything exactly laid out, start pouring mortar into the cracks between the bricks. Make sure that the bricks match each other proportionately and finally meet the door.

Now we proceed to the glass-magnesium sheet, marking it with the air pockets of the fireplace, with an overlap of 2 cm on each side. We install it on the masonry, and as a result we get a flat surface for the stove mortar.

This sheet can withstand temperatures of 1000°C and in the photo you can see an example of it.

We fill the pockets themselves with broken bricks. We lightly tighten the upper edge with the solution, and then lay down the glass-magnesium sheet and apply the solution. And behind the front part of the door we put a corner in which we will hide the upper oven strips located on the door.

Step 6 – Laying the chimney casing

At this stage, everything falls under your imagination, since in addition to the idea of ​​​​hiding the chimney itself, you get the opportunity to create an interesting decor. There is nothing complicated about this, just follow the standard pattern with which the brick was laid when assembling the entire fireplace . The main thing is to connect the pipes protruding from the fireplace to the pipes passing through the chimney.

All we need is a hole in the floor and roof, along which we will lay out a chimney of bricks layer by layer, gradually applying cement mortar. Make sure that it is completely sealed on all sides.

The final stage of the brickwork is the assembly of the back wall, or rather its further construction after installing the fireplace. Also now it is necessary to deal with external insulation, as well as decorative elements. After all, you want your own brick fireplace to bring not only warmth, but also comfort and aesthetics?

1. Rubble stone.
2. Decorative brick.
3. Ceramic tile.
4. Porcelain tiles.

Each of them has its own structure, so they have different specifics of fastening. In this regard, before working with them, consult with the seller about the method of fastening. All I can say is that they use special adhesive mixtures that can withstand high temperatures, and the resulting seams are simply filled with a standard putty solution.

Summing up

As you can see, making a home fireplace is not so easy, but it is quite possible. The main thing is to adhere to maximum precision and accuracy at each stage. If you make a mistake at any point, you can seriously spoil further layers. But if you follow the instructions above, you can avoid many problems. And the video in this article will help you get even more useful information on this process. If you have any questions, ask them in the comments.

Many of us dream of sitting in the cold winter near a warm fireplace, reading alone or talking with loved ones in a cozy atmosphere. But not everyone knows how to make a fireplace on their own. In fact, if you wish, you can do anything, including building a simple fireplace.

Planning and calculation

Before you start building a fireplace in a private house or cottage, you need to design it correctly, as well as calculate all the costs associated with its construction, i.e. make an estimate.

The cost of the work depends on the type of fireplace, its finishing with various materials and many other components. It is necessary to take into account not only its location, ceiling height, number of floors of the building, but also the features of the foundation, the material of the floor and facade walls, as well as the need for insulation,

Some experts suggest that you will need at least 50 thousand rubles if you are building a brick fireplace, lined with natural stone, in a two-story small house (pipe diameter from 200 to 260 cm). Let's look at the main stages of building such a fireplace.

Fireplace design

The main components of a fireplace are the firebox and chimney, but other elements are no less important for its effective functioning:

• smoke collector
• heating device
• ash pan
• grate
• valve (at the bottom of the firebox under the grate where the ash gets in)
• lining (internal thermal insulation layer of the fireplace lining)
• fire cutter
• forced convection system
• safety doors

Types of fireplaces and their main parameters

The location of the fireplace determines its appearance.

• Wall fireplace

The most common. It usually comes in large sizes and is located near the wall. It is erected even in a house built a long time ago. The wall to which the chimney is attached must be fire resistant.

• Built-in fireplace

The smallest one. Built into some wall niche. It should be erected during the construction phase of the house.

• Corner fireplace

The most beautiful and effective. Located in the corner of the room. Its chimney is attached to one adjacent wall.

• Freestanding fireplace

Ostrovny. It looks like a flat platform that rises above the floor surface.

How to choose a place for a fireplace

You should not place the fireplace in a draft, in the hallway or near the stairs, or in rooms smaller than 20 m2. It is necessary to analyze the bearing capacity of the foundation and ceiling, and provide free space in front of the fireplace.

In a wooden house, measures should be taken to ensure safety: the floor should be made of fire-resistant material, the distance from the firebox to flammable elements and materials should be at least 800 mm.

Materials for building a fireplace

To build a brick fireplace you will need the following materials:

• Red (stove) brick for the fireplace

It is advisable to purchase stove bricks specifically designed for such purposes. At the same time, it must be of very good quality (no flaws, uniform structure, bright color, correct shape). Tap each brick with a hammer; it should produce a special clear sound. Poor quality brick makes a dull sound. A bluish-black or dark gray color indicates that the brick has been burned. White spots indicate that the drying technology was not followed. An average fireplace requires 250 - 300 bricks (without chimney). Refractory fireclay bricks (or increased fire resistance) are used for lining fireboxes.

• Clay, sand and cement

It is better to use red clay (0.5 cubic meters depending on the fat content), but ordinary clay is also possible. If refractory bricks are used, refractory clay will be required. The need for the cleanest sand possible (preferably it has a fraction of no more than 1.5 mm) is about 0.6-0.8 m3. The need for ordinary cement (grade 200 or 300) is 100 kg (together with foundation work).

• Additional materials

To build a foundation for a fireplace, you will need crushed stone (fraction up to 6 cm) - 0.2 m3. You will need a smoke damper, reinforcement blanks (about 20 pieces, diameter 10 mm, length 700 mm), a grate with grates, a chimney and other materials for construction work.

Brick fireplace laying - general rules

• Preparatory stage

Before laying, the bricks are laid out in accordance with the diagram in the drawing. First lay out the next row dry. The bricks are adjusted one to another.

• Fireplace wall masonry

The laying is carried out starting with the corner bricks, strictly controlling each row by level. Then they lay out a row around the perimeter (outer), and at the end they lay the middle. Thin seams are completely filled with mortar, narrowings and turns of the gas chimney are rounded off. Seam bandaging is performed on half a brick in each row. Check each layer with the drawing, mark the rows with chalk or pencil. The outer walls and lining masonry are not bandaged.

• Laying curved surfaces

The surfaces of the vaults and smoke collector, which have curved surfaces, are laid out with a brick overlap (preferably no more than 6 cm). Then, the opening of the fireplace portal is covered with brick lintels (wedge-shaped, arched, vaulted), which are arranged using cliche formwork. Construction begins with laying the heels, and then following the outline of the desired fireplace arch. The castle brick is installed on the circle after creating the supporting heels. After this, the laying must be carried out simultaneously on both sides.

• Features of fireplace masonry

During the masonry work, it is important to wipe all the internal walls of the channels, smoke collector, and firebox with a wet rag, removing excess solution. It is not recommended to plaster the inside of the fireplace, and the brick should only be laid with the smoothest edge inside the channel or firebox.

Probably every owner of a country house is thinking about making a fireplace with his own hands. However, few people bring this idea to the implementation stage, and it’s completely in vain: of course, this task is not so simple, but not only a professional stove maker can do it. Now I will prove it to you.

If you are planning to build a fireplace, then the article I prepared will definitely appeal to you. In it I will talk in some detail about the process of constructing this structure, starting from the selection of materials and ending with decorative finishing techniques.

Fireplace design

A fireplace is a fairly simple heating device that provides room heating due to radiation from burning fuel (wood, coal, less often pellets or briquettes). Unlike a stove, heat transfer here is of secondary importance: although the walls of the fireplace heat up, they give off heat quite quickly.

The design of this device is not complicated:

1. The basis is the firebox - an open chamber in which combustion occurs. The efficiency of the fireplace depends on the configuration of the firebox and its volume, so when calculating the dimensions of the structure, this parameter must be taken into account first.
2. The chimney is responsible for removing combustion products. If you make a fireplace with your own hands “from scratch”, then the chimney is placed directly above the firebox - this design ensures maximum efficiency of the entire system. If the fireplace is being built in a house with an existing chimney, then it can be attached to the side - if the design features are taken into account, the loss of efficiency will be minimal.

Other parts that may be included in the design include:

1. Ash pan with valve.
2. Grate.
3. They cut off the flames.
4. Protective screens or doors made of fire-resistant glass.

The outside of the structure is lined with heat-resistant materials or finished with plaster mixtures that are resistant to temperature influences.

It should be noted that a fireplace in a private home is usually used as an additional source of heating. This is due to the not the highest efficiency of the open design: the efficiency of classic fireplaces rarely exceeds 25 - 30%. On the other hand, let's be honest - we rarely decide to install a fireplace just because we're cold!

Materials and tools

The most popular, and at the same time the easiest to manufacture (if the word “simple” applies to stove masonry) are brick fireplaces. It is about the manufacture of such a design that I will talk about in this section.

The materials we will need are:

1. Ceramic bricks (M150 or better) - from 250 to 500 pieces, depending on the dimensions of the product.
2. Fire-resistant fireclay bricks for lining – about 50 pieces.
3. Metal parts of the fireplace - grate, protective grill, door, etc.

1. Metal corners (50 mm or more).
2. Masonry mixture for fireplaces and stoves.
3. Cement mortar for pouring the foundation.
4. Sifted sand, with a grain size from 0.5 to 1.5 mm.
5. Plaster mixture.
6. Cladding material – clinker tiles, natural stone, etc.
7. Fireproof materials for the manufacture of protective screens.
8. Sandwich sectional chimney.

To lay the structure and finish it, we will use the following set of tools:

1. Shovels for digging a pit and mixing the solution.
2. Containers for preparing mortar (for foundations, masonry and plastering).
3. Measuring tools – level, plumb line, tape measure, square.
4. Stove hammer.
5. Master OK.
6. Spatulas.
7. Brushes for finishing seams.
8. Joining.

In general, there is nothing particularly complicated - but working when everything you need is at hand is much more convenient.

Preparatory stage

Selecting a location

When planning to build a brick fireplace with your own hands, you first need to decide where it will stand.

As a rule, fireplaces are installed in living rooms or bedrooms, but the exact location must be chosen according to the following recommendations:

1. The ideal option is to locate it near one of the internal walls (or even install a fireplace built into the wall). This way it will not only give off heat to the room, but also heat the adjacent room.
2. The structure installed in the corner formed by two internal walls is also very effective. But the construction of a fireplace in this case will be somewhat difficult: corner models are more difficult to install than standard ones.

1. It is not advisable to place a fireplace opposite a wall with many windows. Even if your window frames are well fitted, drafts will inevitably occur when burning fuel in the cold season.
2. It goes without saying that there is no point in attaching a fireplace to the outer wall: this way we will mainly heat the street, and temperature changes will not benefit the structure.

Calculation of dimensions

Now we need to determine the main dimensions of the future structure.

The most important thing here is the correct selection of the dimensions of the combustion chamber and chimney.

1. The area of ​​the fireplace opening directly depends on the area of ​​the room in which it will be installed. The optimal ratio of these values ​​is from 1:50 to 1:70. So, for example, for a conventional living room with an area of ​​20 square meters (quite a lot for a country house), you will need a firebox of about 0.4 m2.

Some reference books give a ratio of 1:100, but it can be used, rather, for decorative fireplaces that are lit in rooms with a fairly high temperature, solely to create an atmosphere. So if you have a separate heating boiler or stove, then you can save on material.

1. From the area of ​​the combustion opening we need to move on to height and width. For small fireplaces of a standard configuration, the optimal ratio is 2:3. For our example, a design of 50 – 52 x 75 – 77 cm is suitable.
2. The ratio of firebox depth to height is from 1:2 to 2:3. It is not advisable to deviate from these ratios: if we do less, there will be a lot of smoke; if we do more, the heating efficiency will decrease. For our example, it is worth choosing a firebox from 26 to 35 cm deep.
3. We make the smoke hole approximately 10 times smaller (expansion is allowed from 8 to 12 times) of the area of ​​the combustion hole. In our case, this is approximately 0.04 m2.
4. The optimal chimney height is 4-5 meters or more.

Foundation structure

Now that we know where the fireplace will be located and what dimensions its base will have, we can proceed to laying the foundation. Simply building a structure on the floor is not an option: the weight of even a small model can reach half a ton, and no ceiling can withstand such a load without deformation.

Laying a capital foundation for a fireplace is easiest to plan at the stage of constructing the building itself. If the structure is being built in a house that is already in use, then you will have to dismantle the floor covering and partially dismantle the structures located under the floor.

The work algorithm will be something like this:

1. First, we dig a pit at the site where the structure is installed. The length and width of the recess should be approximately 10–20 cm greater than the base of the fireplace, and the depth should be 0.7–1 m. Under small fireplaces, you can lay a base 0.5 m deep, but no less.

1. We level the bottom of the pit, after which we lay large stones or broken ceramic bricks on the ground. We tamp the backfill and then pour a layer of concrete approximately 20 cm thick.
2. When the concrete has partially polymerized, we repeat the filling with rubble stone, using a finer fraction. We compact the backfill again and fill in the solution (you can make it thicker).

1. According to this scheme, we lay three or four layers of material. Under the last layer, which should extend to the floor level in the room, we lay waterproofing - a roll of roofing material or a polymer membrane. This material will cut off capillary moisture from the base of the structure.

The last leveling layer can be made not from concrete, but from ceramic bricks with clay/cement mortar. To increase strength, you can also place several steel corners in the base, which will ensure a more even distribution of the load.

The foundation described is the simplest, but at the same time it ensures sufficient stability of the entire structure. By the way, I would not recommend connecting it to the general foundation of the house: these foundations have different shrinkage rates, so it is advisable to provide them with a certain degree of freedom.

Protecting the premises from fire

A brick fireplace gets quite hot during operation; in addition, an open firebox is a potential source of sparks and “firing” coals. That is why in a room built from flammable material or decorated with such materials, it is necessary to install an additional protective circuit.

It includes a separate section of the floor covering in front of the combustion hole and the so-called leaning wall:

1. The area of ​​the floor in front of the fireplace is finished with non-combustible tiles - tiles, porcelain stoneware, clinker or natural stone. I prefer clinker, but the other options are quite good, since the floor still does not heat up much.
2. Before we start building the fireplace, we also protect the wall behind its back wall. For this purpose, a brick wall made of refractory bricks is best suited. The wall should be about 50 cm wider than the fireplace - this will more effectively protect the base from overheating and ignition.

1. Instead of a brick wall, you can make a screen. The fire-resistant materials used here are either galvanized steel sheet on a backing of basalt fiber or fire-resistant plasterboard, or a mineralite slab mounted on ceramic bushings and secured with screws. The downside of such screens is their appearance: while a brick wall can still be fitted into it, then sheets of polished metal or fire-resistant composite will clearly stand out.

1. Separately, it is worth mentioning the thermal insulation of the chimney. When installing a fireplace in a wooden house, all areas where the wood will come into contact with a heating surface (be it a brick chimney or a composite pipe made of a sandwich) must be equipped with a fire-retardant circuit. I usually use non-flammable materials based on asbestos or (better) basalt fiber.

Construction method

Fireplace masonry

Before we begin constructing the structure, we study the drawings of fireplaces, which are abundantly presented on the Internet. You can find several examples in this article, but in reality the choice is huge, so finding a suitable model will not be difficult.

Now let's start laying:

1. We begin the work by preparing the solution. Experienced stove makers use clay or cement-clay compositions, but for beginners it is better to spend money and take a ready-made masonry mixture that has fire-resistant properties. We prepare the solution according to all the rules, strictly observing the proportions specified by the manufacturer.
2. Now on the foundation we lay out the first layer of brick, which consists of one or two starting rows. The hearth bricks must lie perfectly flat, so we set them level, strictly controlling not only the plane, but also the diagonals.

Under – first row on a waterproofed base

1. After laying out the hearth, we begin to form the combustion chamber. To reduce costs, it is best to carry out masonry with an “air pocket” - a gap between the inner chamber and the outer cladding. In this case, inside we use quite expensive fireclay bricks, and outside we use ordinary ones, which are cheaper (the price of fireclay is about 65 rubles per piece, the price of solid M150 is 7.50 - 10 rubles per piece).

1. We lay out the bottom of the combustion chamber from fireclay, forming a hole in the center for the ash pan and installing a grate to collect ash. There must be free space under the grate - it must be provided when laying out the hearth rows.
2. Next we lay out the walls of the combustion chamber, as well as the outer walls. I prefer to lay out the firebox first, and then, about two or three rows apart, lift the outer lining.

Two-layer construction: inside – refractory, outside – ordinary brick

When laying the front wall, do not forget that the contact point between ordinary and refractory bricks is a potentially problematic area. To protect the material from destruction when heated, I lay strips of basalt cardboard between the bricks.

1. If the design of the fireplace includes a door, we embed a frame into the front wall, which we also install with a basalt cardboard gasket.

1. When the walls of the firebox and cladding are brought to the required height, we make the ceiling. For covering, it is best to use a thick glass-magnesium sheet. We close the side air gaps with sheet fragments, and then lay the sheet on top of the back of the firebox so that there remains a hole for the chimney (forming a “chimney tooth”). On the other side of the hole we fix a steel corner.

Air pockets can be filled with broken refractory or regular red brick - this material will retain heat, so the room will cool more slowly. A screed up to 50 mm thick is poured over the glass-magnesium covering of the pocket.

1. We begin to lay the casing on top. The easiest way is to make it in steps, each time reducing the area of ​​the structure by 1/4 of a brick. Due to this, we form a cone that provides effective smoke removal.

In the place where the fireplace body narrows, you can lay a thick beam of dried wood - a mantelpiece. However, it can also be made from brick, forming a protrusion along the entire width of the structure.

1. We lift the casing either to the ceiling (connecting it with the hole made in the ceiling) or to the chimney hole built into the wall. We make the upper part of the casing flat.

It is best to dry the fireplace naturally. To do this, we actively ventilate the room for 10–14 days, trying to minimize temperature changes. As soon as the condensation on the internal surfaces disappears and the damp spots on the brick disappear, you can begin finishing.

Surface finishing

If we make a fireplace with our own hands, then after laying it it must be finished. When decorative brick is used for the exterior, finishing involves tidying up the seams, but most often fireplaces are either plastered or lined with clinker.

Both technologies are quite labor-intensive, so here I will describe only the basic algorithms.

Let's start with plaster:

1. To level the surfaces we use a fire-resistant plaster composition. It can be prepared from clay, sand and asbestos, but it is better not to experiment, but to buy a ready-made plaster mixture with guaranteed heat resistance.

1. Before applying the plaster, take a nail and deepen the seams between the bricks, removing the mortar to a depth of about 10 mm.
2. Steel plaster mesh with cells from 10 to 25 mm and fix it on the surfaces to be plastered. For fixation, we use only nails that need to be driven into the seams between the bricks - neither metal nor plastic dowels are suitable, since they deform when heated and destroy the masonry.

1. We plaster the surface in two or three layers: first we apply 3-5 mm of mortar, dry it, and only then lay the main mass - in layers of no more than 10 mm.
2. When shallow cracks appear, carefully open them with a knife, moisten them and cover them with fresh solution.

1. After this, the plaster is dried either naturally or with a gentle flow, followed by cooling.

Cladding fireplaces with your own hands is easier than plastering, so beginners are better off choosing this method:

1. As finishing materials we use terracotta, clinker or majolica - special ceramic-based tiles that can withstand high heat without damage.
2. For fastening, we purchase a special heat-resistant glue - its elasticity allows you to compensate for temperature changes when the walls of the fireplace are heated. So the tiles will not fall off.

1. Before facing, we perform rough plastering - it is not necessary to perfectly level the walls, it is important to obtain a surface without protrusions and depressions.
2. Apply the adhesive composition, diluted according to the manufacturer's instructions, with a notched trowel both on the fireplace wall and on the tiles. We press the facing material to the surface and level it.

1. When facing, be sure to put seams between the parts. To control their width, you can use either spacer crosses or (if a wide seam is needed) gypsum board trim.
2. When the glue polymerizes, we rub the seams with a special compound. It will not only give the structure a complete appearance, but will also protect the base of the fireplace from moisture penetrating through the gaps between the tiles.

1. 24 hours after finishing the grouting, we heat the fireplace (very carefully, without fanaticism) and leave it to dry for another two weeks. After this, the structure will be ready for use.

Conclusion

This is not to say that building a fireplace with your own hands is easy. To successfully complete the job, you will need both certain knowledge and skill with accuracy. But in any case, if you follow the recommendations given in the text and video in this article, and in difficult situations seek advice in the comments, then everything will work out!